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pe of the cocons； that which contains the male is sharp； and the other obtuse； at the two ends。 In ten or twelve days after the cocon is finished； the worm makes its way through it； in the form of a very ugly； unwieldy； aukward butterfly； and as the different sexes are placed by one another on paper or linen； they immediately engender。 The female lays her eggs； which are carefully preserved； but neither she nor her mate takes any nourishment； and in eight or ten days after they quit the cocons； they generally die。 The silk of these cocons cannot be wound； because the animals in piercing through them； have destroyed the continuity of the filaments。 It is therefore； first boiled； and then picked and carded like wool； and being afterwards spun； is used in the coarser stuffs of the silk manufacture。 The other cocons； which yield the best silk； are managed in a different manner。 Before the inclosed worm has time to penetrate； the silk is reeled off with equal care and ingenuity。 A handful of the cocons are thrown away into a kettle of boiling water； which not only kills the animal； but dissolves the glutinous substance by which the fine filaments of the silk cohere or stick together； so that they are easily wound off； without breaking。 Six or seven of these small filaments being joined together are passed over a kind of twisting iron； and fixed to the wheel； which one girl turns； while another； with her hands in the boiling water； disentangles the threads； joins them when they chance to break； and supplies fresh cocons with admirable dexterity and dispatch。 There is a manufacture of this kind just without one of the gates of Nice； where forty or fifty of these wheels are worked together； and give employment for some weeks to double the number of young women。 Those who manage the pods that float in the boiling water must be very alert； otherwise they will scald their fingers。 The smell that comes from the boiling cocons is extremely offensive。 Hard by the harbour； there is a very curious mill for twisting the silk； which goes by water。 There is in the town of Nice； a well regulated hospital for poor orphans of both sexes； where above one hundred of them are employed in dressing； dyeing； spinning； and weaving the silk。 In the villages of Provence； you see the poor women in the streets spinning raw silk upon distaves： but here the same instrument is only used for spinning hemp and flax； which last； however； is not of the growth of NiceBut lest I should spin this letter to a tedious length； I will now wind up my bottom； and bid you heartily farewell。
LETTER XXIII
NICE； December 19； 1764。
SIR；In my last； I gave you a succinct account of the silkworm； and the management of that curious insect in this country。 I shall now proceed to describe the methods of making wine and oil。
The vintage begins in September。 The grapes being chosen and carefully picked； are put into a large vat； where they are pressed by a man's naked feet； and the juices drawn off by a cock below。 When no more is procured by this operation； the bruised grapes are put into the press； and yield still more liquor。 The juice obtained by this double pressure； being put in casks； with their bungs open； begins to ferment and discharge its impurities at the openings。 The waste occasioned by this discharge； is constantly supplied with fresh wine； so that the casks are always full。 The fermentation continues for twelve； fifteen； or twenty days； according to the strength and vigour of the grape。 In about a month； the wine is fit for drinking。 When the grapes are of a bad； meagre kind； the wine dealers mix the juice with pigeons'…dung or quick…lime； in order to give it a spirit which nature has denied： but this is a very mischievous adulteration。
The process for oil…making is equally simple。 The best olives are those that grow wild； but the quantity of them is very inconsiderable。 Olives begin to ripen and drop in the beginning of November： but some remain on the trees till February； and even till April； and these are counted the most valuable。 When the olives are gathered； they must be manufactured immediately； before they fade and grow wrinkled； otherwise they will produce bad oil。 They are first of all ground into a paste by a mill…stone set edge…ways in a circular stone…trough； the wheel being turned by water。
This paste is put into trails or circular cases made of grass woven； having a round hole at top and bottom； when filled they resemble in shape our Cheshire cheeses。 A number of these placed one upon another； are put in a press； and being squeezed； the oil with all its impurities； runs into a receptacle below fixed in the ground。 From hence it is laded into a wooden vat； half filled with water。 The sordes or dirt falls to the bottom； the oil swims a…top； and being skimmed off； is barrelled up in small oblong casks。 What remains in the vat； is thrown into a large stone cistern with water； and after being often stirred； and standing twelve or fourteen days； yields a coarser oil used for lamps and manufactures。 After these processes； they extract an oil still more coarse and fetid from the refuse of the whole。 Sometimes； in order to make the olives grind the more easily into a paste； and part with more oil； they are mixed with a little hot water： but the oil thus procured is apt to grow rancid。 The very finest； called virgin oil； is made chiefly of green olives； and sold at a very high price； because a great quantity is required to produce a very little oil。 Even the stuff that is left after all these operations； consisting of the dried pulp； is sold for fuel； and used in brasieres for warming apartments which have no chimney。
I have now specified all the manufactures of Nice which are worth mentioning。 True it is； there is some coarse paper made in this neighbourhood； there are also people here who dress skins and make leather for the use of the inhabitants： but this business is very ill performed： the gloves and shoes are generally rotten as they come from the hands of the maker。 Carpenter's； joiner's； and blacksmith's work is very coarsely and clumsily done。 There are no chairs to be had at Nice； but crazy things made of a few sticks； with rush bottoms； which are sold for twelve livres a dozen。 Nothing can be more contemptible than the hard…ware made in this place； such as knives； scissors； and candle…snuffers。 All utensils in brass and copper are very ill made and finished。 The silver…smiths make nothing but spoons； forks； paultry rings； and crosses for the necks of the women。
The houses are built of a ragged stone dug from the mountains； and the interstices are filled with rubble； so that the walls would appear very ugly； if they were not covered with plaister； which has a good effect。 They generally consist of three stories； and are covered with tiles。 The apartments of the better sort are large and lofty； the floors paved with brick； the roofs covered with a thick coat of stucco； and the walls whitewashed。 People of distinction hang their chambers with damask； striped silk； painted cloths； tapestry； or printed linnen。 All the doors； as well as