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ut； growing thinner and flatter from the shoulders downwards； so as to resemble a soal at the tail。 This cannot be the mustela of the antients； which is supposed to be the sea lamprey。 Here too are found the vyvre； or； as we call it； weaver； remarkable for its long； sharp spines； so dangerous to the fingers of the fishermen。 We have abundance of the saepia； or cuttle…fish； of which the people in this country make a delicate ragout； as also of the polype de mer； which is an ugly animal； with long feelers； like tails； which they often wind about the legs of the fishermen。 They are stewed with onions； and eat something like cow…heel。 The market sometimes affords the ecrivisse de mer； which is a lobster without claws； of a sweetish taste； and there are a few rock oysters； very small and very rank。 Sometimes the fishermen find under water； pieces of a very hard cement； like plaister of Paris； which contain a kind of muscle； called la datte； from its resemblance to a date。 These petrifactions are commonly of a triangular form and may weigh about twelve or fifteen pounds each and one of them may contain a dozen of these muscles which have nothing extraordinary in the taste or flavour； though extremely curious； as found alive and juicy； in the heart of a rock； almost as hard as marble； without any visible communication with the air or water。 I take it for granted； however； that the inclosing cement is porous； and admits the finer parts of the surrounding fluid。 In order to reach the muscles； this cement must be broke with large hammers； and it may be truly said； the kernal is not worth the trouble of cracking the shell。 ＇These are found in great plenty at Ancona and other parts of the Adriatic； where they go by the name of Bollani； as we are informed by Keysler。＇ Among the fish of this country； there is a very ugly animal of the eel species； which might pass for a serpent： it is of a dusky； black colour； marked with spots of yellow； about eighteen inches； or two feet long。 The Italians call it murena； but whether it is the fish which had the same name among the antient Romans； I cannot pretend to determine。 The antient murena was counted a great delicacy； and was kept in ponds for extraordinary occasions。 Julius Caesar borrowed six thousand for one entertainment： but I imagined this was the river lamprey。 The murena of this country is in no esteem； and only eaten by the poor people。
Craw…fish and trout are rarely found in the rivers among the mountains。 The sword…fish is much esteemed in Nice； and called l'empereur； about six or seven feet long： but I have never seen it。 ＇Since I wrote the above letter； I have eaten several times of this fish； which is as white as the finest veal； and extremely delicate。 The emperor associates with the tunny fish； and is always taken in their company。＇ They are very scarce； and when taken； are generally concealed； because the head belongs to the commandant； who has likewise the privilege of buying the best fish at a very low price。 For which reason； the choice pieces are concealed by the fishermen； and sent privately to Piedmont or Genoa。 But； the chief fisheries on this coast are of the sardines； anchovies； and tunny。 These are taken in small quantities all the year； but spring and summer is the season when they mostly abound。 In June and July； a fleet of about fifty fishing…boats puts to sea every evening about eight o'clock； and catches anchovies in immense quantities。 One small boat sometimes takes in one night twenty…five rup； amounting to six hundred weight； but it must be observed； that the pound here； as well as in other parts of Italy； consists but of twelve ounces。 Anchovies； besides their making a considerable article in the commerce of Nice； are a great resource in all families。 The noblesse and burgeois sup on sallad and anchovies； which are eaten on all their meagre days。 The fishermen and mariners all along this coast have scarce any other food but dry bread； with a few pickled anchovies； and when the fish is eaten； they rub their crusts with the brine。 Nothing can be more delicious than fresh anchovies fried in oil： I prefer them to the smelts of the Thames。 I need not mention； that the sardines and anchovies are caught in nets； salted； barrelled； and exported into all the different kingdoms and states of Europe。 The sardines； however； are largest and fattest in the month of September。 A company of adventurers have farmed the tunny…fishery of the king； for six years； a monopoly； for which they pay about three thousand pounds sterling。 They are at a very considerable expence for nets； boats； and attendance。 Their nets are disposed in a very curious manner across the small bay of St。 Hospice； in this neighbourhood； where the fish chiefly resort。 They are never removed； except in the winter； and when they want repair： but there are avenues for the fish to enter； and pass； from one inclosure to another。 There is a man in a boat； who constantly keeps watch。 When he perceives they are fairly entered； he has a method for shutting all the passes； and confining the fish to one apartment of the net； which is lifted up into the boat； until the prisoners are taken and secured。 The tunny…fish generally runs from fifty to one hundred weight； but some of them are much larger。 They are immediately gutted； boiled； and cut in slices。 The guts and head afford oil： the slices are partly dried； to be eaten occasionally with oil and vinegar； or barrelled up in oil； to be exported。 It is counted a delicacy in Italy and Piedmont； and tastes not unlike sturgeon。 The famous pickle of the ancients； called garum； was made of the gills and blood of the tunny； or thynnus。 There is a much more considerable fishery of it in Sardinia； where it is said to employ four hundred persons； but this belongs to the duc de St。 Pierre。 In the neighbourhood of Villa Franca； there are people always employed in fishing for coral and sponge； which grow adhering to the rocks under water。 Their methods do not favour much of ingenuity。 For the coral； they lower down a swab； composed of what is called spunyarn on board our ships of war； hanging in distinct threads； and sunk by means of a great weight； which； striking against the coral in its descent； disengages it from the rocks； and some of the pieces being intangled among the threads of the swab； are brought up with it above water。 The sponge is got by means of a cross…stick； fitted with hooks； which being lowered down； fastens upon it； and tears it from the rocks。 In some parts of the Adriatic and Archipelago； these substances are gathered by divers； who can remain five minutes below water。 But I will not detain you one minute longer； though I must observe； that there is plenty of fine samphire growing along all these rocks； neglected and unknown。Adieu。
LETTER XIX
NICE； October 10； 1764。
DEAR SIR；Before I tell you the price of provisions at Nice； it will be necessary to say something of the money。 The gold coin of Sardinia consists of the doppia di savoia； value twenty…four livres Piedmontese； about the size of a loui'dore； and the mezzo doppia； or piece of twelve l