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of frogs； and the bells and braying of mules and asses continually passing in a perpetual cloud of dust。 Besides these amusements； there is a public conversazione every evening at the commandant's house called the Government； where those noble personages play at cards for farthings。 In carnival time； there is also； at this same government； a ball twice or thrice a week； carried on by subscription。 At this assembly every person； without distinction； is permitted to dance in masquerade： but； after dancing； they are obliged to unmask； and if Bourgeois； to retire。 No individual can give a ball； without obtaining a permission and guard of the commandant； and then his house is open to all masques； without distinction； who are provided with tickets； which tickets are sold by the commandant's secretary； at five sols a…piece； and delivered to the guard at the door。 If I have a mind to entertain my particular friends； I cannot have more than a couple of violins； and； in that case； it is called a conversazione。
Though the king of Sardinia takes all opportunities to distinguish the subjects of Great…Britain with particular marks of respect； I have seen enough to be convinced； that our nation is looked upon with an evil eye by the people of Nice； and this arises partly from religious prejudices； and partly from envy； occasioned by a ridiculous notion of our superior wealth。 For my own part； I owe them nothing on the score of civilities； and therefore； I shall say nothing more on the subject； lest I should be tempted to deviate from that temperance and impartiality which I would fain hope have hitherto characterised the remarks of； Dear Sir； your faithful； humble servant。
LETTER XVIII
NICE； September 2； 1764。
DEAR DOCTOR；I wrote in May to Mr。 B at Geneva； and gave him what information he desired to have； touching the conveniences of Nice。 I shall now enter into the same detail； for the benefit of such of your friends or patients； as may have occasion to try this climate。
The journey from Calais to Nice； of four persons in a coach； or two post…chaises； with a servant on horseback； travelling post； may be performed with ease； for about one hundred and twenty pounds； including every expence。 Either at Calais or at Paris； you will always find a travelling coach or berline； which you may buy for thirty or forty guineas； and this will serve very well to reconvey you to your own country。
In the town of Nice； you will find no ready…furnished lodgings for a whole family。 Just without one of the gates； there are two houses to be let； ready…furnished； for about five loui'dores per month。 As for the country houses in this neighbourhood； they are damp in winter； and generally without chimnies； and in summer they are rendered uninhabitable by the heat and the vermin。 If you hire a tenement in Nice； you must take it for a year certain； and this will cost you about twenty pounds sterling。 For this price； I have a ground floor paved with brick； consisting of a kitchen； two large halls； a couple of good rooms with chimnies； three large closets that serve for bed…chambers； and dressing…rooms； a butler's room； and three apartments for servants； lumber or stores； to which we ascend by narrow wooden stairs。 I have likewise two small gardens； well stocked with oranges； lemons； peaches； figs； grapes； corinths； sallad； and pot…herbs。 It is supplied with a draw…well of good water； and there is another in the vestibule of the house； which is cool； large； and magnificent。 You may hire furniture for such a tenement for about two guineas a month： but I chose rather to buy what was necessary； and this cost me about sixty pounds。 I suppose it will fetch me about half the money when I leave the place。 It is very difficult to find a tolerable cook at Nice。 A common maid； who serves the people of the country； for three or four livres a month； will not live with an English family under eight or ten。 They are all slovenly； slothful； and unconscionable cheats。 The markets at Nice are tolerably well supplied。 Their beef； which comes from Piedmont； is pretty good； and we have it all the year。 In the winter we have likewise excellent pork； and delicate lamb； but the mutton is indifferent。 Piedmont； also； affords us delicious capons； fed with maize； and this country produces excellent turkeys； but very few geese。 Chickens and pullets are extremely meagre。 I have tried to fatten them； without success。 In summer they are subject to the pip； and die in great numbers。 Autumn and winter are the seasons for game； hares； partridges； quails； wild…pigeons； woodcocks； snipes； thrushes； beccaficas； and ortolans。 Wild…boar is sometimes found in the mountains： it has a delicious taste； not unlike that of the wild hog in Jamaica； and would make an excellent barbecue； about the beginning of winter； when it is in good case： but； when meagre； the head only is presented at tables。 Pheasants are very scarce。 As for the heath…game； I never saw but one cock； which my servant bought in the market； and brought home； but the commandant's cook came into my kitchen； and carried it of； after it was half plucked； saying； his master had company to dinner。 The hares are large； plump； and juicy。 The partridges are generally of the red sort； large as pullets； and of a good flavour： there are also some grey partridges in the mountains； and another sort of a white colour； that weigh four or five pounds each。 Beccaficas are smaller than sparrows； but very fat； and they are generally eaten half raw。 The best way of dressing them is to stuff them into a roll； scooped of it's crum； to baste them well with butter； and roast them； until they are brown and crisp。 The ortolans are kept in cages； and crammed； until they die of fat； then eaten as dainties。 The thrush is presented with the trail； because the bird feeds on olives。 They may as well eat the trail of a sheep； because it feeds on the aromatic herbs of the mountain。 In the summer； we have beef； veal； and mutton； chicken； and ducks； which last are very fat； and very flabby。 All the meat is tough in this season； because the excessive heat； and great number of flies； will not admit of its being kept any time after it is killed。 Butter and milk； though not very delicate； we have all the year。 Our tea and fine sugar come from Marseilles； at a very reasonable price。
Nice is not without variety of fish； though they are not counted so good in their kinds as those of the ocean。 Soals； and flat…fish in general； are scarce。 Here are some mullets； both grey and red。 We sometimes see the dory； which is called St Pierre； with rock…fish； bonita； and mackarel。 The gurnard appears pretty often； and there is plenty of a kind of large whiting； which eats pretty well； but has not the delicacy of that which is caught on our coast。 One of the best fish of this country； is called Le Loup； about two or three pounds in weight； white； firm； and well…flavoured。 Another； no…way inferior to it； is the Moustel； about the same size； of a dark…grey colour； and short； blunt snout； growing thinner and flatter from the shoulders downwards； so as to resemble a soal at the tail