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; to break off the force of the waves; when the wind is southerly; it would be one of the finest harbours in the world; for the ground is exceeding good for anchorage: there is a sufficient depth of water; and room enough for the whole navy of England。 On the right hand; as you enter the port; there is an elegant fanal; or lighthouse; kept in good repair: but in all the charts of this coast which I have seen; this lanthorn is laid down to the westward of the harbour; an error equally absurd and dangerous; as it may mislead the navigator; and induce him to run his ship among the rocks; to the eastward of the lighthouse; where it would undoubtedly perish。 Opposite to the mouth of the harbour is the fort; which can be of no service; but in defending the shipping and the town by sea; for; by land; it is commanded by Montalban; and all the hills in the neighbourhood。 In the war of 1744; it was taken and retaken。 At present; it is in tolerable good repair。 On the left of the fort; is the basin for the gallies; with a kind of dock; in which they are built; and occasionally laid up to be refitted。 This basin is formed by a pretty stone mole; and here his Sardinian majesty's two gallies lie perfectly secure; moored with their sterns close to the jette。 I went on board one of these vessels; and saw about two hundred miserable wretches; chained to the banks on which they sit and row; when the galley is at sea。 This is a sight which a British subject; sensible of the blessing he enjoys; cannot behold without horror and compassion。 Not but that if we consider the nature of the case; with coolness and deliberation; we must acknowledge the justice; and even sagacity; of employing for the service of the public; those malefactors who have forfeited their title to the privileges of the community。 Among the slaves at Ville Franche is a Piedmontese count; condemned to the gallies for life; in consequence of having been convicted of forgery。 He is permitted to live on shore; and gets money by employing the other slaves to knit stockings for sale。 He appears always in the Turkish habit; and is in a fair way of raising a better fortune than that which he has forfeited。
It is a great pity; however; and a manifest outrage against the law of nations; as well as of humanity; to mix with those banditti; the Moorish and Turkish prisoners who are taken in the prosecution of open war。 It is certainly no justification of this barbarous practice; that the Christian prisoners are treated as cruelly at Tunis and Algiers。 It would be for the honour of Christendom; to set an example of generosity to the Turks; and; if they would not follow it; to join their naval forces; and extirpate at once those nests of pirates; who have so long infested the Mediterranean。 Certainly; nothing can be more shameful; than the treaties which France and the Maritime Powers have concluded with those barbarians。 They supply them with artillery; arms; and ammunition; to disturb their neighbours。 They even pay them a sort of tribute; under the denomination of presents; and often put up with insults tamely; for the sordid consideration of a little gain in the way of commerce。 They know that Spain; Sardinia; and almost all the Catholic powers in the Mediterranean; Adriatic; and Levant; are at perpetual war with those Mahometans; that while Algiers; Tunis; and Sallee; maintain armed cruisers at sea; those Christian powers will not run the risque of trading in their own bottoms; but rather employ as carriers the maritime nations; who are at peace with the infidels。 It is for our share of this advantage; that we cultivate the piratical States of Barbary; and meanly purchase passports of them; thus acknowledging them masters of the Mediterranean。
The Sardinian gallies are mounted each with five…and…twenty oars; and six guns; six…pounders; of a side; and a large piece of artillery amidships; pointing ahead; which (so far as I am able to judge) can never be used point…blank; without demolishing the head or prow of the galley。 The accommodation on board for the officers is wretched。 There is a paltry cabin in the poop for the commander; but all the other officers lie below the slaves; in a dungeon; where they have neither light; air; nor any degree of quiet; half suffocated by the heat of the place; tormented by fleas; bugs; and lice; and disturbed by the incessant noise over head。 The slaves lie upon the naked banks; without any other covering than a tilt。 This; however; is no great hardship; in a climate where there is scarce any winter。 They are fed with a very scanty allowance of bread; and about fourteen beans a day and twice a week they have a little rice; or cheese; but most of them; while they are in harbour knit stockings; or do some other kind of work; which enables them to make some addition to this wretched allowance。 When they happen to be at sea in bad weather; their situation is truly deplorable。 Every wave breaks over the vessel; and not only keeps them continually wet; but comes with such force; that they are dashed against the banks with surprising violence: sometimes their limbs are broke; and sometimes their brains dashed out。 It is impossible (they say) to keep such a number of desperate people under any regular command; without exercising such severities as must shock humanity。 It is almost equally impossible to maintain any tolerable degree of cleanliness; where such a number of wretches are crouded together without conveniences; or even the necessaries of life。 They are ordered twice a week to strip; clean; and bathe themselves in the sea: but; notwithstanding all the precautions of discipline; they swarm with vermin; and the vessel smells like an hospital; or crouded jail。 They seem; nevertheless; quite insensible of their misery; like so many convicts in Newgate: they laugh and sing; and swear; and get drunk when they can。 When you enter by the stern; you are welcomed by a band of music selected from the slaves; and these expect a gratification。 If you walk forwards; you must take care of your pockets。 You will be accosted by one or other of the slaves; with a brush and blacking…ball for cleaning your shoes; and if you undergo this operation; it is ten to one but your pocket is picked。 If you decline his service; and keep aloof; you will find it almost impossible to avoid a colony of vermin; which these fellows have a very dexterous method of conveying to strangers。 Some of the Turkish prisoners; whose ransom or exchange is expected; are allowed to go ashore; under proper inspection; and those forcats; who have served the best part of the time for which they were condemned; are employed in public works; under a guard of soldiers。 At the harbour of Nice; they are hired by ship…masters to bring ballast; and have a small proportion of what they earn; for their own use: the rest belongs to the king。 They are distinguished by an iron shackle about one of their legs。 The road from Nice to Ville Franche is scarce passable on horseback: a circumstance the more extraordinary; as those slaves; in the space of two or three months; might even make it fit for a carriage