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d'ete； or demi…saison。 without presuming to put on a warm dress before the day which fashion has fixed for that purpose； and neither old age nor infirmity will excuse a man for wearing his hat upon his head； either at home or abroad。 Females are （if possible） still more subject to the caprices of fashion； and as the articles of their dress are more manifold； it is enough to make a man's heart ake to see his wife surrounded by a multitude of cotturieres； milliners； and tire…women。 All her sacks and negligees must be altered and new trimmed。 She must have new caps； new laces； new shoes； and her hair new cut。 She must have her taffaties for the summer； her flowered silks for the spring and autumn； her sattins and damasks for winter。 The good man； who used to wear the beau drop d'Angleterre； quite plain all the year round； with a long bob； or tye perriwig； must here provide himself with a camblet suit trimmed with silver for spring and autumn； with silk cloaths for summer； and cloth laced with gold； or velvet for winter； and he must wear his bag…wig a la pigeon。 This variety of dress is absolutely indispensible for all those who pretend to any rank above the meer bourgeois。 On his return to his own country； all this frippery is useless。 He cannot appear in London until he has undergone another thorough metamorphosis； so that he will have some reason to think； that the tradesmen of Paris and London have combined to lay him under contribution： and they； no doubt； are the directors who regulate the fashions in both capitals； the English； however； in a subordinate capacity： for the puppets of their making will not pass at Paris； nor indeed in any other part of Europe； whereas a French petit maitre is reckoned a complete figure every where； London not excepted。 Since it is so much the humour of the English at present to run abroad； I wish they had anti…gallican spirit enough to produce themselves in their own genuine English dress； and treat the French modes with the same philosophical contempt； which was shewn by an honest gentleman； distinguished by the name of Wig…Middleton。 That unshaken patriot still appears in the same kind of scratch perriwig； skimming…dish hat； and slit sleeve； which were worn five…and…twenty years ago； and has invariably persisted in this garb； in defiance of all the revolutions of the mode。 I remember a student in the temple； who； after a long and learned investigation of the to kalon； or beautiful； had resolution enough to let his beard grow； and wore it in all public places； until his heir at law applied for a commission of lunacy against him； then he submitted to the razor； rather than run any risque of being found non compos。
Before I conclude； I must tell you； that the most reputable shop…keepers and tradesmen of Paris think it no disgrace to practise the most shameful imposition。 I myself know an instance of one of the most creditable marchands in this capital； who demanded six francs an ell for some lutestring； laying his hand upon his breast at the same time； and declaring en conscience； that it had cost him within three sols of the money。 Yet in less than three minutes； he sold it for four and a half； and when the buyer upbraided him with his former declaration； he shrugged up his shoulders； saying； il faut marchander。 I don't mention this as a particular instance。 The same mean disingenuity is universal all over France； as I have been informed by several persons of veracity。
The next letter you have from me will probably be dated at Nismes； or Montpellier。 Mean…while； I am everYours。
LETTER VII
To MRS。 M。 PARIS； October； 12； 1763。
MADAM；I shall be much pleased if the remarks I have made on the characters of the French people； can afford you the satisfaction you require。 With respect to the ladies I can only judge from their exteriors： but； indeed； these are so characteristic； that one can hardly judge amiss； unless we suppose that a woman of taste and sentiment may be so overruled by the absurdity of what is called fashion； as to reject reason； and disguise nature； in order to become ridiculous or frightful。 That this may be the case with some individuals； is very possible。 I have known it happen in our own country； where the follies of the French are adopted and exhibited in the most aukward imitation： but the general prevalence of those preposterous modes； is a plain proof that there is a general want of taste； and a general depravity of nature。 I shall not pretend to describe the particulars of a French lady's dress。 These you are much better acquainted with than I can pretend to be： but this I will be bold to affirm； that France is the general reservoir from which all the absurdities of false taste； luxury； and extravagance have overflowed the different kingdoms and states of Europe。 The springs that fill this reservoir； are no other than vanity and ignorance。 It would be superfluous to attempt proving from the nature of things； from the first principles and use of dress； as well as from the consideration of natural beauty； and the practice of the ancients； who certainly understood it as well as the connoisseurs of these days； that nothing can be more monstrous； inconvenient； and contemptible； than the fashion of modern drapery。 You yourself are well aware of all its defects； and have often ridiculed them in my hearing。 I shall only mention one particular of dress essential to the fashion in this country； which seems to me to carry human affectation to the very farthest verge of folly and extravagance； that is； the manner in which the faces of the ladies are primed and painted。 When the Indian chiefs were in England every body ridiculed their preposterous method of painting their cheeks and eye…lids； but this ridicule was wrong placed。 Those critics ought to have considered； that the Indians do not use paint to make themselves agreeable； but in order to be the more terrible to their enemies。 It is generally supposed； I think； that your sex make use of fard and vermillion for very different purposes； namely； to help a bad or faded complexion； to heighten the graces； or conceal the defects of nature； as well as the ravages of time。 I shall not enquire at present； whether it is just and honest to impose in this manner on mankind： if it is not honest； it may be allowed to be artful and politic； and shews； at least； a desire of being agreeable。 But to lay it on as the fashion in France prescribes to all the ladies of condition； who indeed cannot appear without this badge of distinction； is to disguise themselves in such a manner； as to render them odious and detestable to every spectator； who has the least relish left for nature and propriety。 As for the fard or white； with which their necks and shoulders are plaistered； it may be in some measure excusable； as their skins are naturally brown； or sallow； but the rouge； which is daubed on their faces； from the chin up to the eyes； without the least art or dexterity； not only destroys all distinction of features； but renders the aspect really frightful； or at best conveys nothing but ideas of disgust and aversion。 You know； that witho