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travels through france and italy-第31章

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d; that is two hundred thousand more than  are contained in the bills of mortality。 The hotels of the French  noblesse; at Paris; take up a great deal of room; with their  courtyards and gardens; and so do their convents and churches。 It  must be owned; indeed; that their streets are wonderfully crouded  with people and carriages。

The French begin to imitate the English; but only in such  particulars as render them worthy of imitation。 When I was last  at Paris; no person of any condition; male or female; appeared; but in full dress; even when obliged to  come out early in the morning; and there was not such a thing to  be seen as a perruque ronde; but at present I see a number of  frocks and scratches in a morning; in the streets of this  metropolis。 They have set up a petite poste; on the plan of our  penny…post; with some improvements; and I am told there is a  scheme on foot for supplying every house with water; by leaden  pipes; from the river Seine。 They have even adopted our practice  of the cold bath; which is taken very conveniently; in wooden  houses; erected on the side of the river; the water of which is  let in and out occasionally; by cocks fixed in the sides of the  bath。 There are different rooms for the different sexes: the  accommodations are good; and the expence is a trifle。 The  tapestry of the Gobelins is brought to an amazing degree of  perfection; and I am surprised that this furniture is not more in  fashion among the great; who alone are able to purchase it。 It  would be a most elegant and magnificent ornament; which would  always nobly distinguish their apartments from those; of an  inferior rank; and in this they would run no risk of being  rivalled by the bourgeois。 At the village of Chaillot; in the  neighbourhood of Paris; they make beautiful carpets and screen…work;  and this is the more extraordinary; as there are hardly any  carpets used in this kingdom。 In almost all the lodging…houses;  the floors are of brick; and have no other kind of cleaning; than  that of being sprinkled with water; and swept once a day。 These  brick floors; the stone stairs; the want of wainscotting in the  rooms; and the thick party…walls of stone; are; however; good  preservatives against fire; which seldom does any damage in this  city。 Instead of wainscotting; the walls are covered with  tapestry or damask。 The beds in general are very good; and well  ornamented; with testers and curtains。

Twenty years ago the river Seine; within a mile of Paris; was as  solitary as if it had run through a desert。 At present the banks  of it are adorned with a number of elegant houses and  plantations; as far as Marli。 I need not mention the machine at  this place for raising water; because I know you are well  acquainted with its construction; nor shall I say any thing more  of the city of Paris; but that there is a new square; built upon  an elegant plan; at the end of the garden of the Thuilleries: it  is called Place de Louis XV。 and; in the middle of it; there is a  good equestrian statue of the reigning king。

You have often heard that Louis XIV。 frequently regretted; that  his country did not afford gravel for the walks of his gardens;  which are covered with a white; loose sand; very disagreeable  both to the eyes and feet of those who walk upon it; but this is  a vulgar mistake。 There is plenty of gravel on the road between  Paris and Versailles; as well as in many other parts of this  kingdom; but the French; who are all for glare and glitter; think  the other is more gay and agreeable: one would imagine they did  not feel the burning reflexion from the white sand; which in  summer is almost intolerable。

In the character of the French; considered as a people; there are  undoubtedly many circumstances truly ridiculous。 You know the  fashionable people; who go a hunting; are equipped with their  jack boots; bag wigs; swords and pistols: but I saw the other day  a scene still more grotesque。 On the road to Choissi; a fiacre;  or hackney…coach; stopped; and out came five or six men; armed  with musquets; who took post; each behind a separate tree。 I  asked our servant who they were imagining they might be archers;  or footpads of justice; in pursuit of some malefactor。 But guess  my surprise; when the fellow told me; they were gentlemen a la  chasse。 They were in fact come out from Paris; in this equipage;  to take the diversion of hare…hunting; that is; of shooting from  behind a tree at the hares that chanced to pass。 Indeed; if they  had nothing more in view; but to destroy the game; this was a  very effectual method; for the hares are in such plenty in this  neighbourhood; that I have seen a dozen together; in the same  field。 I think this way of hunting; in a coach or chariot; might  be properly adopted at London; in favour of those aldermen of the  city; who are too unwieldy to follow the hounds a horseback。

The French; however; with all their absurdities; preserve a  certain ascendancy over us; which is very disgraceful to our  nation; and this appears in nothing more than in the article of  dress。 We are contented to be thought their apes in fashion; but;  in fact; we are slaves to their taylors; mantua…makers; barbers;  and other tradesmen。 One would be apt to imagine that our own  tradesmen had joined them in a combination against us。 When the  natives of France come to London; they appear in all public  places; with cloaths made according to the fashion of their own  country; and this fashion is generally admired by the English。  Why; therefore; don't we follow it implicitly? No; we pique  ourselves upon a most ridiculous deviation from the very modes we  admire; and please ourselves with thinking this deviation is a  mark of our spirit and liberty。 But; we have not spirit enough to  persist in this deviation; when we visit their country:  otherwise; perhaps; they would come to admire and follow our  example: for; certainly; in point of true taste; the fashions of  both countries are equally absurd。 At present; the skirts of the  English descend from the fifth rib to the calf of the leg; and  give the coat the form of a Jewish gaberdine; and our hats seem  to be modelled after that which Pistol wears upon the stage。 In  France; the haunch buttons and pocketholes are within half a foot  of the coat's extremity: their hats look as if they had been  pared round the brims; and the crown is covered with a kind of  cordage; which; in my opinion; produces a very beggarly effect。  In every other circumstance of dress; male and female; the  contrast between the two nations; appears equally glaring。 What  is the consequence? when an Englishman comes to Paris; he cannot  appear until he has undergone a total metamorphosis。 At his first  arrival he finds it necessary to send for the taylor; perruquier;  hatter; shoemaker; and every other tradesman concerned in the  equipment of the human body。 He must even change his buckles; and  the form of his ruffles; and; though at the risque of his life;  suit his cloaths to the mode of the season。 For example; though  the weather should be never so cold; he must wear his habit  d'ete; or demi…saison。 without presuming to put on a warm dress  before the day which fashion has fi
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