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travels through france and italy-第25章

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 end of the year to the other。  If superstition implies fear; never was a word more misapplied  than it is to the mummery of the religion of Rome。 The people are  so far from being impressed with awe and religious terror by this  sort of machinery; that it amuses their imaginations in the most  agreeable manner; and keeps them always in good humour。 A Roman  catholic longs as impatiently for the festival of St。 Suaire; or  St。 Croix; or St。 Veronique; as a schoolboy in England for the  representation of punch and the devil; and there is generally as  much laughing at one farce as at the other。 Even when the descent  from the cross is acted; in the holy week; with all the  circumstances that ought naturally to inspire the gravest  sentiments; if you cast your eyes among the multitude that croud  the place; you will not discover one melancholy face: all is  prattling; tittering; or laughing; and ten to one but you  perceive a number of them employed in hissing the female who  personates the Virgin Mary。 And here it may not be amiss to  observe; that the Roman catholics; not content with the infinite  number of saints who really existed; have not only personified  the cross; but made two female saints out of a piece of linen。  Veronique; or Veronica; is no other than a corruption of vera  icon; or vera effigies; said to be the exact representation of  our Saviour's face; impressed upon a piece of linen; with which  he wiped the sweat from his forehead in his way to the place of  crucifixion。 The same is worshipped under the name of St。 Suaire;  from the Latin word sudarium。 This same handkerchief is said to  have had three folds; on every one of which was the impression:  one of these remains at Jerusalem; a second was brought to Rome;  and a third was conveyed to Spain。 Baronius says; there is a very  antient history of the sancta facies in the Vatican。 Tillemont; however; looks upon the  whole as a fable。 Some suppose Veronica to be the same with St。  Haemorrhoissa; the patroness of those who are afflicted with the  piles; who make their joint invocations to her and St。 Fiacre;  the son of a Scotch king; who lived and died a hermit in France。  The troops of Henry V。 of England are said to have pillaged the  chapel of this Highland saint; who; in revenge; assisted his  countrymen; in the French service; to defeat the English at  Bauge; and afterwards afflicted Henry with the piles; of which he  died。 This prince complained; that he was not only plagued by the  living Scots; but even persecuted by those who were dead。

I know not whether I may be allowed to compare the Romish  religion to comedy; and Calvinism to tragedy。 The first amuses  the senses; and excites ideas of mirth and good…humour; the  other; like tragedy; deals in the passions of terror and pity。  Step into a conventicle of dissenters; you will; ten to one; hear  the minister holding forth upon the sufferings of Christ; or the  torments of hell; and see many marks of religious horror in the  faces of the hearers。 This is perhaps one reason why the  reformation did not succeed in France; among a volatile; giddy;  unthinking people; shocked at the mortified appearances of the  Calvinists; and accounts for its rapid progress among nations of  a more melancholy turn of character and complexion: for; in the  conversion of the multitude; reason is generally out of the  question。 Even the penance imposed upon the catholics is little  more than mock mortification: a murderer is often quit with his  confessor for saying three prayers extraordinary; and these easy  terms; on which absolution is obtained; certainly encourage the  repetition of the most enormous crimes。 The pomp and ceremonies  of this religion; together with the great number of holidays they  observe; howsoever they may keep up the spirits of the  commonalty; and help to diminish the sense of their own misery;  must certainly; at the same time; produce a frivolous taste for  frippery and shew; and encourage a habit of idleness; to which I;  in a great measure; ascribe the extreme poverty of the lower  people。 Very near half of their time; which might he profitably  employed in the exercise of industry; is lost to themselves and  the community; in attendance upon the different exhibitions of  religious mummery。

But as this letter has already run to an unconscionable length; I  shall defer; till another occasion; what I have further to say on  the people of this place; and in the mean time assure you; that I  am alwaysYours affectionately。

LETTER V

BOULOGNE; September 12; 1763。

DEAR SIR;My stay in this place now draws towards a period。  'Till within these few days I have continued bathing; with some  advantage to my health; though the season has been cold and wet;  and disagreeable。 There was a fine prospect of a plentiful  harvest in this neighbourhood。 I used to have great pleasure in  driving between the fields of wheat; oats; and barley; but the  crop has been entirely ruined by the rain; and nothing is now to  be seen on the ground but the tarnished straw; and the rotten  spoils of the husbandman's labour。 The ground scarce affords  subsistence to a few flocks of meagre sheep; that crop the  stubble; and the intervening grass; each flock under the  protection of its shepherd; with his crook and dogs; who lies  every night in the midst of the fold; in a little thatched  travelling lodge; mounted on a wheel…carriage。 Here he passes the  night; in order to defend his flock from the wolves; which are  sometimes; especially in winter; very bold and desperate。

Two days ago we made an excursion with Mrs。 B and Capt。 L to  the village of Samers; on the Paris road; about three leagues  from Boulogne。 Here is a venerable abbey of Benedictines; well  endowed; with large agreeable gardens prettily laid out。 The  monks are well lodged; and well entertained。 Tho' restricted from  flesh meals by the rules of their order; they are allowed to eat  wild duck and teal; as a species of fish; and when they long for  a good bouillon; or a partridge; or pullet; they have nothing to  do but to say they are out of order。 In that case the appetite of  the patient is indulged in his own apartment。 Their church is  elegantly contrived; but kept in a very dirty condition。 The  greatest curiosity I saw in this place was an English boy; about  eight or nine years old; whom his father had sent hither to learn  the French language。 In less than eight weeks; he was become  captain of the boys of the place; spoke French perfectly well;  and had almost forgot his mother tongue。 But to return to the  people of Boulogne。

The burghers here; as in other places; consist of merchants;  shop…keepers; and artisans。 Some of the merchants have got  fortunes; by fitting out privateers during the war。 A great many  single ships were taken from the English; notwithstanding the  good look…out of our cruisers; who were so alert; that the  privateers from this coast were often taken in four hours after  they sailed from the French harbour; and there is hardly a  captain of an armateur in Boulogne; who has not been prisoner in  England five or six times in the course of the war。 They were  fitted out at a very small expence; and used to run o
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