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end of the year to the other。 If superstition implies fear; never was a word more misapplied than it is to the mummery of the religion of Rome。 The people are so far from being impressed with awe and religious terror by this sort of machinery; that it amuses their imaginations in the most agreeable manner; and keeps them always in good humour。 A Roman catholic longs as impatiently for the festival of St。 Suaire; or St。 Croix; or St。 Veronique; as a schoolboy in England for the representation of punch and the devil; and there is generally as much laughing at one farce as at the other。 Even when the descent from the cross is acted; in the holy week; with all the circumstances that ought naturally to inspire the gravest sentiments; if you cast your eyes among the multitude that croud the place; you will not discover one melancholy face: all is prattling; tittering; or laughing; and ten to one but you perceive a number of them employed in hissing the female who personates the Virgin Mary。 And here it may not be amiss to observe; that the Roman catholics; not content with the infinite number of saints who really existed; have not only personified the cross; but made two female saints out of a piece of linen。 Veronique; or Veronica; is no other than a corruption of vera icon; or vera effigies; said to be the exact representation of our Saviour's face; impressed upon a piece of linen; with which he wiped the sweat from his forehead in his way to the place of crucifixion。 The same is worshipped under the name of St。 Suaire; from the Latin word sudarium。 This same handkerchief is said to have had three folds; on every one of which was the impression: one of these remains at Jerusalem; a second was brought to Rome; and a third was conveyed to Spain。 Baronius says; there is a very antient history of the sancta facies in the Vatican。 Tillemont; however; looks upon the whole as a fable。 Some suppose Veronica to be the same with St。 Haemorrhoissa; the patroness of those who are afflicted with the piles; who make their joint invocations to her and St。 Fiacre; the son of a Scotch king; who lived and died a hermit in France。 The troops of Henry V。 of England are said to have pillaged the chapel of this Highland saint; who; in revenge; assisted his countrymen; in the French service; to defeat the English at Bauge; and afterwards afflicted Henry with the piles; of which he died。 This prince complained; that he was not only plagued by the living Scots; but even persecuted by those who were dead。
I know not whether I may be allowed to compare the Romish religion to comedy; and Calvinism to tragedy。 The first amuses the senses; and excites ideas of mirth and good…humour; the other; like tragedy; deals in the passions of terror and pity。 Step into a conventicle of dissenters; you will; ten to one; hear the minister holding forth upon the sufferings of Christ; or the torments of hell; and see many marks of religious horror in the faces of the hearers。 This is perhaps one reason why the reformation did not succeed in France; among a volatile; giddy; unthinking people; shocked at the mortified appearances of the Calvinists; and accounts for its rapid progress among nations of a more melancholy turn of character and complexion: for; in the conversion of the multitude; reason is generally out of the question。 Even the penance imposed upon the catholics is little more than mock mortification: a murderer is often quit with his confessor for saying three prayers extraordinary; and these easy terms; on which absolution is obtained; certainly encourage the repetition of the most enormous crimes。 The pomp and ceremonies of this religion; together with the great number of holidays they observe; howsoever they may keep up the spirits of the commonalty; and help to diminish the sense of their own misery; must certainly; at the same time; produce a frivolous taste for frippery and shew; and encourage a habit of idleness; to which I; in a great measure; ascribe the extreme poverty of the lower people。 Very near half of their time; which might he profitably employed in the exercise of industry; is lost to themselves and the community; in attendance upon the different exhibitions of religious mummery。
But as this letter has already run to an unconscionable length; I shall defer; till another occasion; what I have further to say on the people of this place; and in the mean time assure you; that I am alwaysYours affectionately。
LETTER V
BOULOGNE; September 12; 1763。
DEAR SIR;My stay in this place now draws towards a period。 'Till within these few days I have continued bathing; with some advantage to my health; though the season has been cold and wet; and disagreeable。 There was a fine prospect of a plentiful harvest in this neighbourhood。 I used to have great pleasure in driving between the fields of wheat; oats; and barley; but the crop has been entirely ruined by the rain; and nothing is now to be seen on the ground but the tarnished straw; and the rotten spoils of the husbandman's labour。 The ground scarce affords subsistence to a few flocks of meagre sheep; that crop the stubble; and the intervening grass; each flock under the protection of its shepherd; with his crook and dogs; who lies every night in the midst of the fold; in a little thatched travelling lodge; mounted on a wheel…carriage。 Here he passes the night; in order to defend his flock from the wolves; which are sometimes; especially in winter; very bold and desperate。
Two days ago we made an excursion with Mrs。 B and Capt。 L to the village of Samers; on the Paris road; about three leagues from Boulogne。 Here is a venerable abbey of Benedictines; well endowed; with large agreeable gardens prettily laid out。 The monks are well lodged; and well entertained。 Tho' restricted from flesh meals by the rules of their order; they are allowed to eat wild duck and teal; as a species of fish; and when they long for a good bouillon; or a partridge; or pullet; they have nothing to do but to say they are out of order。 In that case the appetite of the patient is indulged in his own apartment。 Their church is elegantly contrived; but kept in a very dirty condition。 The greatest curiosity I saw in this place was an English boy; about eight or nine years old; whom his father had sent hither to learn the French language。 In less than eight weeks; he was become captain of the boys of the place; spoke French perfectly well; and had almost forgot his mother tongue。 But to return to the people of Boulogne。
The burghers here; as in other places; consist of merchants; shop…keepers; and artisans。 Some of the merchants have got fortunes; by fitting out privateers during the war。 A great many single ships were taken from the English; notwithstanding the good look…out of our cruisers; who were so alert; that the privateers from this coast were often taken in four hours after they sailed from the French harbour; and there is hardly a captain of an armateur in Boulogne; who has not been prisoner in England five or six times in the course of the war。 They were fitted out at a very small expence; and used to run o