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travels through france and italy-第24章

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The adjacent country is very agreeable; diversified with hill and  dale; corn…fields; woods; and meadows。 There is a forest of a  considerable extent; that begins about a short league from the  Upper Town: it belongs to the king; and the wood is farmed to  different individuals。

In point of agriculture; the people in this neighbourhood seem to  have profited by the example of the English。 Since I was last in  France; fifteen years ago; a good number of inclosures and  plantations have been made in the English fashion。 There is a  good many tolerable country…houses; within a few miles of  Boulogne; but mostly empty。 I was offered a compleat house; with  a garden of four acres well laid out; and two fields for grass or  hay; about a mile from the town; for four hundred livres; about  seventeen pounds a year: it is partly furnished; stands in an  agreeable situation; with a fine prospect of the sea; and was  lately occupied by a Scotch nobleman; who is in the service of  France。

To judge from appearance; the people of Boulogne are descended  from the Flemings; who formerly possessed this country; for; a  great many of the present inhabitants have fine skins; fair hair;  and florid complexions; very different from the natives of France  in general; who are distinguished by black hair; brown skins; and  swarthy faces。 The people of the Boulonnois enjoy some  extraordinary privileges; and; in particular; are exempted from  the gabelle or duties upon salt: how they deserved this mark of  favour; I do not know; but they seem to have a spirit of  independence among them; are very ferocious; and much addicted to  revenge。 Many barbarous murders are committed; both in the town  and country; and the peasants; from motives of envy and  resentment; frequently set their neighbours' houses on fire。  Several instances of this kind have happened in the course of the  last year。 The interruption which is given; in arbitrary  governments; to the administration of justice; by the  interposition of the great; has always a bad effect upon the  morals of the common people。 The peasants too are often rendered  desperate and savage; by the misery they suffer from the  oppression and tyranny of their landlords。 In this neighbourhood  the labouring people are ill lodged and wretchedly fed; and they  have no idea of cleanliness。 There is a substantial burgher in  the High Town; who was some years ago convicted of a most  barbarous murder。 He received sentence to be broke alive upon the  wheel; but was pardoned by the interposition of the governor of  the county; and carries on his business as usual in the face of  the whole community。 A furious abbe; being refused orders by the  bishop; on account of his irregular life; took an opportunity to  stab the prelate with a knife; one Sunday; as he walked out of  the cathedral。 The good bishop desired he might be permitted to  escape; but it was thought proper to punish; with the utmost  severity; such an atrocious attempt。 He was accordingly  apprehended; and; though the wound was not mortal; condemned to  be broke。 When this dreadful sentence was executed; he cried out;  that it was hard he should undergo such torments; for having  wounded a worthless priest; by whom he had been injured; while  such…a…one (naming the burgher mentioned above) lived in ease and  security; after having brutally murdered a poor man; and a  helpless woman big with child; who had not given him the least  provocation。

The inhabitants of Boulogne may be divided into three classes;  the noblesse or gentry; the burghers; and the canaille。 I don't  mention the clergy; and the people belonging to the law; because  I shall occasionally trouble you with my thoughts upon the  religion and ecclesiastics of this country; and as for the  lawyers; exclusive of their profession; they may be considered as  belonging to one or other of these divisions。 The noblesse are  vain; proud; poor; and slothful。 Very few of them have above six  thousand livres a year; which may amount to about two hundred and  fifty pounds sterling; and many of them have not half this  revenue。 I think there is one heiress; said to be worth one  hundred thousand livres; about four thousand two hundred pounds;  but then her jewels; her cloaths; and even her linen; are  reckoned part of this fortune。 The noblesse have not the common  sense to reside at their houses in the country; where; by farming  their own grounds; they might live at a small expence; and  improve their estates at the same time。 They allow their country  houses to go to decay; and their gardens and fields to waste; and  reside in dark holes in the Upper Town of Boulogne without light;  air; or convenience。 There they starve within doors; that they may have wherewithal to purchase fine cloaths; and  appear dressed once a day in the church; or on the rampart。 They  have no education; no taste for reading; no housewifery; nor  indeed any earthly occupation; but that of dressing their hair;  and adorning their bodies。 They hate walking; and would never go  abroad; if they were not stimulated by the vanity of being seen。  I ought to except indeed those who turn devotees; and spend the  greatest part of their time with the priest; either at church or  in their own houses。 Other amusements they have none in this  place; except private parties of card…playing; which are far from  being expensive。 Nothing can be more parsimonious than the  oeconomy of these people: they live upon soupe and bouille; fish  and sallad: they never think of giving dinners; or entertaining  their friends; they even save the expence of coffee and tea;  though both are very cheap at Boulogne。 They presume that every  person drinks coffee at home; immediately after dinner; which is  always over by one o'clock; and; in lieu of tea in the afternoon;  they treat with a glass of sherbet; or capillaire。 In a word; I  know not a more insignificant set of mortals than the noblesse of  Boulogne; helpless in themselves; and useless to the community;  without dignity; sense; or sentiment; contemptible from pride。  and ridiculous from vanity。 They pretend to be jealous of their  rank; and will entertain no correspondence with the merchants;  whom they term plebeians。 They likewise keep at a great distance  from strangers; on pretence of a delicacy in the article of  punctilio: but; as I am informed; this stateliness is in a great  measure affected; in order to conceal their poverty; which would  appear to greater disadvantage; if they admitted of a more  familiar communication。 Considering the vivacity of the French  people; one would imagine they could not possibly lead such an  insipid life; altogether unanimated by society; or diversion。  True it is; the only profane diversions of this place are a  puppet…show and a mountebank; but then their religion affords a  perpetual comedy。 Their high masses; their feasts; their  processions; their pilgrimages; confessions; images; tapers;  robes; incense; benedictions; spectacles; representations; and  innumerable ceremonies; which revolve almost incessantly; furnish  a variety of entertainment from one end of the year to the other。  If superstition implies fear; never was a word more misapplied  than
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