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n my passage from Flushing to Dover； the master of the packet…boat brought…to all of a sudden off the South Foreland； although the wind was as favourable as it could blow。 He was immediately boarded by a customhouse boat； the officer of which appeared to be his friend。 He then gave the passengers to understand； that as it was low water； the ship could not go into the harbour； but that the boat would carry them ashore with their baggage。
The custom…house officer demanded a guinea for this service； and the bargain was made。 Before we quitted the ship； we were obliged to gratify the cabin…boy for his attendance； and to give drink…money to the sailors。 The boat was run aground on the open beach； but we could not get ashore without the assistance of three or four fellows； who insisted upon being paid for their trouble。 Every parcel and bundle； as it was landed； was snatched up by a separate porter： one ran away with a hat…box； another with a wig…box； a third with a couple of shirts tied up in a handkerchief； and two were employed in carrying a small portmanteau that did not weigh forty pounds。 All our things were hurried to the custom…house to be searched； and the searcher was paid for disordering our cloaths： from thence they were removed to the inn； where the porters demanded half…a…crown each for their labour。 It was in vain to expostulate； they surrounded the house like a pack of hungry bounds； and raised such a clamour； that we were fain to comply。 After we had undergone all this imposition； we were visited by the master of the packet； who； having taken our fares； and wished us joy of our happy arrival in England； expressed his hope that we would remember the poor master； whose wages were very small； and who chiefly depended upon the generosity of the passengers。 I own I was shocked at his meanness； and could not help telling him so。 I told him； I could not conceive what title he had to any such gratification： he had sixteen passengers； who paid a guinea each； on the supposition that every person should have a bed； but there were no more than eight beds in the cabin； and each of these was occupied before I came on board； so that if we had been detained at sea a whole week by contrary winds and bad weather； one half of the passengers must have slept upon the boards； howsoever their health might have suffered from this want of accommodation。 Notwithstanding this check； he was so very abject and importunate； that we gave him a crown a…piece； and he retired。
The first thing I did when I arrived at Dover this last time； was to send for the master of a packet…boat； and agree with him to carry us to Boulogne at once； by which means I saved the expence of travelling by land from Calais to this last place； a journey of four…and…twenty miles。 The hire of a vessel from Dover to Boulogne is precisely the same as from Dover to Calais； five guineas； but this skipper demanded eight； and； as I did not know the fare； I agreed to give him six。 We embarked between six and seven in the evening； and found ourselves in a most wretched hovel； on board what is called a Folkstone cutter。 The cabin was so small that a dog could hardly turn in it； and the beds put me in mind of the holes described in some catacombs； in which the bodies of the dead were deposited； being thrust in with the feet foremost； there was no getting into them but end…ways； and indeed they seemed so dirty； that nothing but extreme necessity could have obliged me to use them。 We sat up all night in a most uncomfortable situation； tossed about by the sea； cold； arid cramped and weary； and languishing for want of sleep。 At three in the morning the master came down； and told us we were just off the harbour of Boulogne； but the wind blowing off shore； he could not possibly enter； and therefore advised us to go ashore in the boat。 I went upon deck to view the coast； when he pointed to the place where he said Boulogne stood； declaring at the same time we were within a short mile of the harbour's mouth。 The morning was cold and raw； and I knew myself extremely subject to catch cold； nevertheless we were all so impatient to be ashore； that I resolved to take his advice。 The boat was already hoisted out； and we went on board of it； after I had paid the captain and gratified his crew。 We had scarce parted from the ship； when we perceived a boat coming towards us from the shore； and the master gave us to understand； it was coming to carry us into the harbour。 When I objected to the trouble of shifting from one boat to another in the open sea； which （by the bye） was a little rough； he said it was a privilege which the watermen of Boulogne had； to carry all passengers ashore； and that this privilege he durst not venture to infringe。 This was no time nor place to remonstrate。 The French boat came alongside half filled with water； and we were handed from the one to the other。 We were then obliged to lie upon our oars； till the captain's boat went on board and returned from the ship with a packet of letters。 We were afterwards rowed a long league； in a rough sea； against wind and tide； before we reached the harbour； where we landed； benumbed with cold； and the women excessively sick： from our landing…place we were obliged to walk very near a mile to the inn where we purposed to lodge； attended by six or seven men and women； bare…legged； carrying our baggage。 This boat cost me a guinea； besides paying exorbitantly the people who carried our things； so that the inhabitants of Dover and of Boulogne seem to be of the same kidney； and indeed they understand one another perfectly well。 It was our honest captain who made the signal for the shore…boat before I went upon deck； by which means he not only gratified his friends； the watermen of Boulogne； but also saved about fifteen shillings portage； which he must have paid had he gone into the harbour； and thus he found himself at liberty to return to Dover； which he reached in four hours。 I mention these circumstances as a warning to other passengers。 When a man hires a packet…boat from Dover to Calais or Boulogne； let him remember that the stated price is five guineas； and let him insist upon being carried into the harbour in the ship； without paying the least regard to the representations of the master； who is generally a little dirty knave。 When he tells you it is low water； or the wind is in your teeth； you may say you will stay on board till it is high water； or till the wind comes favourable。 If he sees you are resolute； he will find means to bring his ship into the harbour； or at least to convince you； without a possibility of your being deceived； that it is not in his power。 After all； the fellow himself was a loser by his finesse； if he had gone into the harbour； he would have had another fare immediately back to Dover； for there was a Scotch gentleman at the inn waiting for such an opportunity。
Knowing my own weak constitution； I took it for granted this morning's adventure would cost me a fit of illness； and what added to my chagrin； when we arrived at the inn； all the beds were occupied； so that we were obliged to sit in a cold ki