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ative；〃 unheard of in England since the days of Henry VII。； were still capable of affording a lesson to the Scot abroad。 〃I saw a fellow who had three days before murdered his wife in the last month of pregnancy； taking the air with great composure and serenity； on the steps of a church in Florence。〃 Smollett； it is clear； for all his philosophy； was no degenerate representative of the blind； unreasoning seventeenth…century detestation of 〃Popery and wooden shoes。〃
Smollett is one of the first to describe a 〃conversazione；〃 and in illustration of the decadence of Italian manners； it is natural that he should have a good deal to tell us about the Cicisbeatura。 His account of the cicisbeo and his duties； whether in Nice； Florence； or Rome； is certainly one of the most interesting that we have。 Before Smollett and his almost contemporary travel correspondent； Samuel Sharp； it would probably be hard to find any mention of the cicisbeo in England； though the word was consecrated by Sheridan a few years later。 Most of the 〃classic〃 accounts of the usage such as those by Mme。 de Stael； Stendhal； Parini； Byron and his biographers date from very much later； when the institution was long past its prime if not actually moribund。 Now Smollett saw it at the very height of its perfection and at a time when our decorous protestant curiosity on such themes was as lively as Lady Mary Montagu had found it in the case of fair Circassians and Turkish harems just thirty years previously。 ＇A cicisbeo was a dangler。 Hence the word came to be applied punningly to the bow depending from a clouded cane or ornamental crook。 In sixteenth…century Spain； home of the sedan and the caballero galante； the original term was bracciere。 In Venice the form was cavaliere servente。 For a good note on the subject； see Sismondi's Italian Republics； ed。 William Boulting； 1907； p。 793。＇ Like so much in the shapes and customs of Italy the cicisbeatura was in its origin partly Gothic and partly Oriental。 It combined the chivalry of northern friendship with the refined passion of the South for the seclusion of women。 As an experiment in protest against the insipidity which is too often an accompaniment of conjugal intercourse the institution might well seem to deserve a more tolerant and impartial investigation than it has yet received at the hands of our sociologists。 A survival so picturesque could hardly be expected to outlive the bracing air of the nineteenth century。 The north wind blew and by 1840 the cicisbeatura was a thing of the past。
Freed from the necessity of a systematic delineation Smollett rambles about Nice； its length and breadth； with a stone in his pouch； and wherever a cockshy is available he takes full advantage of it。 He describes the ghetto （p。 171）； the police arrangements of the place which he finds in the main highly efficient； and the cruel punishment of the strappado。 The garrucha or strappado and the garrotes； combined with the water…torture and the rack； represented the survival of the fittest in the natural selection of torments concerning which the Holy Office in Italy and Spain had such a vast experience。 The strappado as described by Smollett； however； is a more severe form of torture even than that practised by the Inquisition； and we can only hope that his description of its brutality is highly coloured。 ＇See the extremely learned disquisition on the whole subject in Dr。 H。 C。 Lea's History of the Inquisition in Spain； 1907； vol。 iii。 book vi chap。 vii。＇ Smollett must have enjoyed himself vastly in the market at Nice。 He gives an elaborate and epicurean account of his commissariat during the successive seasons of his sojourn in the neighbourhood。 He was not one of these who live solely 〃below the diaphragm〃； but he understood food well and writes about it with a catholic gusto and relish （156…165）。 He laments the rarity of small birds on the Riviera； and gives a highly comic account of the chasse of this species of gibier。 He has a good deal to say about the sardine and tunny fishery； about the fruit and scent traffic； and about the wine industry； and he gives us a graphic sketch of the silkworm culture； which it is interesting to compare with that given by Locke in 1677。 He has something to say upon the general agriculture； and more especially upon the olive and oil industry。 Some remarks upon the numerous 〃mummeries〃 and festas of the inhabitants lead him into a long digression upon the feriae of the Romans。 It is evident from this that the box of books which he shipped by way of Bordeaux must have been plentifully supplied with classical literature； for； as he remarks with unaffected horror； such a thing as a bookseller had not been so much as heard of in Nice。 Well may he have expatiated upon the total lack of taste among the inhabitants！ In dealing with the trade； revenue； and other administrative details Smollett shows himself the expert compiler and statistician a London journalist in large practice credits himself with becoming by the mere exercise of his vocation。 In dealing with the patois of the country he reveals the curiosity of the trained scholar and linguist。 Climate had always been one of his hobbies； and on learning that none of the local practitioners was in a position to exact a larger fee than sixpence from his patients （quantum mutatus the Nice physician of 1907！） he felt that he owed it to himself to make this the subject of an independent investigation。 He kept a register of the weather during the whole of his stay； and his remarks upon the subject are still of historical interest； although with Teysseire's minutely exact Monograph on the Climatology of Nice （1881） at his disposal and innumerable commentaries thereon by specialists； the inquirer of to…day would hardly go to Smollett for his data。 Then； as now； it is curious to find the rumour current that the climate of Nice was sadly deteriorating。 〃Nothing to what it was before the war！〃 as the grumbler from the South was once betrayed into saying of the August moon。 Smollett's esprit chagrin was nonplussed at first to find material for complaint against a climate in which he admits that there was less rain and less wind than in any other part of the world that he knew。 In these unwonted circumstances he is constrained to fall back on the hard water and the plague of cousins or gnats as affording him the legitimate grievance； in whose absence the warrior soul of the author of the Ode to Independence could never be content。
VII
For his autumn holiday in 1764 Smollett decided on a jaunt to Florence and Rome； returning to Nice for the winter； and he decided to travel as far as Leghorn by sea。 There was choice between several kinds of small craft which plied along the coast； and their names recur with cheerful frequency in the pages of Marryat and other depictors of the Mediterranean。 There was the felucca； an open boat with a tilt over the stern large enough to freight a post…chaise； and propelled by ten to twelve stout mariners。 To commission such a boat to Genoa； a distance of a hundred miles； cost four louis。 As alternative； there was the ta