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where she and her daughters intended passing their summer。 Her
answer struck me as being characteristic enough to quote： 〃We
should much prefer；〃 she said； 〃returning to Bar Harbor； for we all
enjoy that place and have many friends there。 But the truth is； my
daughters have bought themselves very little in the way of toilet
this year； as our finances are not in a flourishing condition。 So
my poor girls will be obliged to make their last year's dresses do
for another season。 Under these circumstances； it is out of the
question for us to return a second summer to the same place。〃
I do not know how this anecdote strikes my readers。 It made me
thoughtful and sad to think that； in a family of intelligent and
practical women； such a reason should be considered sufficient to
outweigh enjoyment； social relations； even health； and allowed to
change the plans of an entire family。
As American women are so fond of copying English ways they should
be willing to take a few lessons on the subject of raiment from
across the water。 As this is not intended to be a dissertation on
〃How to Dress Well on Nothing a Year；〃 and as I feel the greatest
diffidence in approaching a subject of which I know absolutely
nothing； it will be better to sheer off from these reefs and
quicksands。 Every one who reads these lines will know perfectly
well what is meant； when reference is made to the good sense and
practical utility of English women's dress。
What disgusts and angers me （when my way takes me into our surface
or elevated cars or into ferry boats and local trains） is the utter
dissonance between the outfit of most of the women I meet and their
position and occupation。 So universal is this； that it might
almost be laid down as an axiom； that the American woman； no matter
in what walk of life you observe her； or what the time or the
place； is always persistently and grotesquely overdressed。 From
the women who frequent the hotels of our summer or winter resorts；
down all the steps of the social staircase to the char…woman； who
consents （spasmodically） to remove the dust and waste…papers from
my office； there seems to be the same complete disregard of
fitness。 The other evening； in leaving my rooms； I brushed against
a portly person in the half…light of the corridor。 There was a
shimmer of （what appeared to my inexperienced eyes as） costly
stuffs； a huge hat crowned the shadow itself； 〃topped by nodding
plumes；〃 which seemed to account for the depleted condition of my
feather duster。
I found on inquiring of the janitor； that the dressy person I had
met； was the char…woman in street attire； and that a closet was set
aside in the building； for the special purpose of her morning and
evening transformations； which she underwent in the belief that her
social position in Avenue A would suffer； should she appear in the
streets wearing anything less costly than seal…skin and velvet or
such imitations of those expensive materials as her stipend would
permit。
I have as tenants of a small wooden house in Jersey City； a bank
clerk； his wife and their three daughters。 He earns in the
neighborhood of fifteen hundred dollars a year。 Their rent （with
which； by the way； they are always in arrears） is three hundred
dollars。 I am favored spring and autumn by a visit from the ladies
of that family； in the hope （generally futile） of inducing me to do
some ornamental papering or painting in their residence； subjects
on which they have by experience found my agent to be
unapproachable。 When those four women descend upon me； I am fairly
dazzled by the splendor of their attire； and lost in wonder as to
how the price of all that finery can have been squeezed out of the
twelve remaining hundreds of their income。 When I meet the father
he is shabby to the outer limits of the genteel。 His hat has； I am
sure； supported the suns and snowstorms of a dozen seasons。 There
is a threadbare shine on his apparel that suggests a heartache in
each whitened seam； but the ladies are mirrors of fashion； as well
as moulds of form。 What can remain for any creature comforts after
all those fine clothes have been paid for？ And how much is put
away for the years when the long…suffering money maker will be past
work； or saved towards the time when sickness or accident shall
appear on the horizon？ How those ladies had the 〃nerve〃 to enter a
ferry boat or crowd into a cable car； dressed as they were； has
always been a marvel to me。 A landau and two liveried servants
would barely have been in keeping with their appearance。
Not long ago； a great English nobleman； who is also famous in the
yachting world； visited this country accompanied by his two
daughters； high…bred and genial ladies。 No self…respecting
American shop girl or fashionable typewriter would have
condescended to appear in the inexpensive attire which those
English women wore。 Wherever one met them； at dinner； FETE； or
ball； they were always the most simply dressed women in the room。
I wonder if it ever occurred to any of their gorgeously attired
hostesses； that it was because their transatlantic guests were so
sure of their position； that they contented themselves with such
simple toilets knowing that nothing they might wear could either
improve or alter their standing
In former ages； sumptuary laws were enacted by parental
governments； in the hope of suppressing extravagance in dress； the
state of affairs we deplore now； not being a new development of
human weakness； but as old as wealth。
The desire to shine by the splendor of one's trappings is the first
idea of the parvenu； especially here in this country； where the
ambitious are denied the pleasure of acquiring a title； and where
official rank carries with it so little social weight。 Few more
striking ways present themselves to the crude and half…educated for
the expenditure of a new fortune than the purchase of sumptuous
apparel； the satisfaction being immediate and material。 The wearer
of a complete and perfect toilet must experience a delight of which
the uninitiated know nothing； for such cruel sacrifices are made
and so many privations endured to procure this satisfaction。 When
I see groups of women； clad in the latest designs of purple and
fine linen； stand shivering on street corners of a winter night；
until they can crowd into a car； I doubt if the joy they get from
their clothes； compensates them for the creature comforts they are
forced to forego； and I wonder if it never occurs to them to spend
less on their wardrobes and so feel they can afford to return from
a theatre or concert comfortably； in a cab； as a foreign woman；
with their income would do。
There is a stoical determination about the American point of view
that compels a certain amount of respect。 Our countrywomen will
deny themselves pleasures；