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matter； husbands and wives will be provided by contract； to be
taken back and changed if unsatisfactory； as the big stores do with
their goods。 Delightful prospect！ Homes will become superfluous；
parents and children will only meet when their 〃tours〃 happen to
cross each other。 Our great…grandchildren will float through life
freed from every responsibility and more perfectly independent than
even that delightful dreamer； Bellamy； ventured to predict。
CHAPTER 29 … Husks
AMONG the Protestants driven from France by that astute and
liberal…minded sovereign Louis XIV。； were a colony of weavers； who
as all the world knows； settled at Spitalfields in England； where
their descendants weave silk to this day。
On their arrival in Great Britain； before the looms could be set up
and a market found for their industry； the exiles were reduced to
the last extremity of destitution and hunger。 Looking about them
for anything that could be utilized for food； they discovered that
the owners of English slaughter…houses threw away as worthless； the
tails of the cattle they killed。 Like all the poor in France；
these wanderers were excellent cooks； and knew that at home such
caudal appendages were highly valued for the tenderness and flavor
of the meat。 To the amazement and disgust of the English villagers
the new arrivals proceeded to collect this 〃refuse〃 and carry it
home for food。 As the first principle of French culinary art is
the POT…AU…FEU； the tails were mostly converted into soup； on which
the exiles thrived and feasted。
Their neighbors； envious at seeing the despised French indulging
daily in savory dishes； unknown to English palates； and tempted
like 〃Jack's〃 giant by the smell of 〃fresh meat；〃 began to inquire
into the matter； and slowly realized how； in their ignorance； they
had been throwing away succulent and delicate food。 The news of
this discovery gradually spreading through all classes； 〃ox…tail〃
became and has remained the national English soup。
If this veracious tale could be twisted into a metaphor； it would
serve marvellously to illustrate the position of the entire Anglo…
Saxon race； and especially that of their American descendants as
regards the Latin peoples。 For foolish prodigality and reckless；
ignorant extravagance； however； we leave our English cousins far
behind。
Two American hotels come to my mind； as different in their
appearance and management as they are geographically asunder。 Both
are types and illustrations of the wilful waste that has recently
excited Mr。 Ian Maclaren's comment； and the woeful want （of good
food） that is the result。 At one； a dreary shingle construction on
a treeless island； off our New England coast； where the ideas of
the landlord and his guests have remained as unchanged and
primitive as the island itself； I found on inquiry that all
articles of food coming from the first table were thrown into the
sea； and I have myself seen chickens hardly touched； rounds of
beef； trays of vegetables； and every variety of cake and dessert
tossed to the fish。
While we were having soups so thin and tasteless that they would
have made a French house…wife blush； the ingredients essential to
an excellent 〃stock〃 were cast aside。 The boarders were paying
five dollars a day and appeared contented； the place was packed；
the landlord coining money； so it was foolish to expect any
improvement。
The other hotel； a vast caravansary in the South； where a fortune
had been lavished in providing every modern convenience and luxury；
was the 〃fad〃 of its wealthy owner。 I had many talks with the
manager during my stay； and came to realize that most of the
wastefulness I saw around me was not his fault； but that of the
public； to whose taste he was obliged to cater。 At dinner； after
receiving your order； the waiter would disappear for half an hour；
and then bring your entire meal on one tray； the over…cooked meats
stranded in lakes of coagulated gravy； the entrees cold and the
ices warm。 He had generally forgotten two or three essentials； but
to send back for them meant to wait another half…hour； as his other
clients were clamoring to be served。 So you ate what was before
you in sulky disgust； and got out of the room as quickly as
possible。
After one of these gastronomic races； being hungry； flustered； and
suffering from indigestion； I asked mine host if it had never
occurred to him to serve a TABLE D'HOTE dinner （in courses） as is
done abroad； where hundreds of people dine at the same moment； each
dish being offered them in turn accompanied by its accessories。
〃Of course； I have thought of it；〃 he answered。 〃It would be the
greatest improvement that could be introduced into American hotel…
keeping。 No one knows better than I do how disastrous the present
system is to all parties。 Take as an example of the present way；
the dinner I am going to give you to…morrow； in honor of Christmas。
Glance over this MENU。 You will see that it enumerates every
costly and delicate article of food possible to procure and a long
list of other dishes； the greater part of which will not even be
called for。 As no number of CHEFS could possibly oversee the
proper preparation of such a variety of meats and sauces； all will
be carelessly cooked； and as you know by experience； poorly served。
〃People who exact useless variety；〃 he added； 〃are sure in some way
to be the sufferers； in their anxiety to try everything； they will
get nothing worth eating。 Yet that meal will cost me considerably
more than my guests pay for their twenty…four hours' board and
lodging。〃
〃Why do it； you ask？ Because it is the custom； and because it will
be an advertisement。 These bills of fare will be sown broadcast
over the country in letters to friends and kept as souvenirs。 If；
instead of all this senseless superfluity； I were allowed to give a
TABLE D'HOTE meal to…morrow； with the CHEF I have； I could provide
an exquisite dinner； perfect in every detail； served at little
tables as deftly and silently as in a private house。 I could also
discharge half of my waiters； and charge two dollars a day instead
of five dollars； and the hotel would become （what it has never been
yet） a paying investment； so great would he the saving。〃
〃Only this morning；〃 he continued； warming to his subject； 〃while
standing in the dining room； I saw a young man order and then send
away half the dishes on the MENU。 A chicken was broiled for him
and rejected； a steak and an omelette fared no better。 How much do
you suppose a hotel gains from a guest like that？〃
〃The reason Americans put up with such poor viands in hotels is；
that home cooking in this country is so rudimentary； consisting
principally of fried dishes； and hot breads。 So little is known
about the proper preparation of food that