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principally of fried dishes； and hot breads。 So little is known
about the proper preparation of food that tomorrow's dinner will
appear to many as the NE PLUS ULTRA of delicate living。 One of the
charms of a hotel for people who live poorly at home； lies in this
power to order expensive dishes they rarely or never see on their
own tables。〃
〃To be served with a quantity of food that he has but little desire
to eat is one of an American citizen's dearest privileges； and a
right he will most unwillingly relinquish。 He may know as well as
you and I do； that what he calls for will not be worth eating； that
is of secondary importance； he has it before him； and is
contented。〃
〃The hotel that attempted limiting the liberty of its guests to the
extent of serving them a TABLE D'HOTE dinner； would be emptied in a
week。〃
〃A crowning incongruity； as most people are delighted to dine with
friends； or at public functions； where the meal is invariably
served A LA RUSSE （another name for a TABLE D'HOTE）； and on these
occasions are only too glad to have their MENU chosen for them。
The present way； however； is a remnant of 'old times' and the
average American； with all his love of change and novelty； is very
conservative when it comes to his table。〃
What this manager did not confide to me； but what I discovered
later for myself； was that to facilitate the service； and avoid
confusion in the kitchens； it had become the custom at all the
large and most of the small hotels in this country； to carve the
joints； cut up the game； and portion out vegetables； an hour or two
before meal time。 The food； thus arranged； is placed in vast steam
closets； where it simmers gayly for hours； in its own； and fifty
other vapors。
Any one who knows the rudiments of cookery； will recognize that
with this system no viand can have any particular flavor； the
partridges having a taste of their neighbor the roast beef； which
in turn suggests the plum pudding it has been 〃chumming〃 with。
It is not alone in a hotel that we miss the good in grasping after
the better。 Small housekeeping is apparently run on the same
lines。
A young Frenchman； who was working in my rooms； told me in reply to
a question regarding prices； that every kind of food was cheaper
here than abroad； but the prejudice against certain dishes was so
strong in this country that many of the best things in the markets
were never called for。 Our nation is no longer in its 〃teens〃 and
should cease to act like a foolish boy who has inherited （what
appears to him） a limitless fortune； not for fear of his coming；
like his prototype in the parable； to live on 〃husks〃 for he is
doing that already； but lest like the dog of the fable； in grasping
after the shadow of a banquet he miss the simple meal that is
within his reach。
One of the reasons for this deplorable state of affairs lies in the
foolish education our girls receive。 They learn so little
housekeeping at home； that when married they are obliged to begin
all over again； unless they prefer； like a majority of their
friends； to let things as go at the will and discretion of the
〃lady〃 below stairs。
At both hotels I have referred to； the families of the men
interested considered it beneath them to know what was taking
place。 The 〃daughter〃 of the New England house went semi…weekly to
Boston to take violin lessons at ten dollars each； although she had
no intention of becoming a professional； while the wife wrote
poetry and ignored the hotel side of her life entirely。
The 〃better half〃 of the Florida establishment hired a palace in
Rome and entertained ambassadors。 Hotels divided against
themselves are apt to be establishments where you pay for riotous
living and are served only with husks。
We have many hard lessons ahead of us； and one of the hardest will
be for our nation to learn humbly from the thrifty emigrants on our
shores； the great art of utilizing the 〃tails〃 that are at this
moment being so recklessly thrown away。
As it is； in spite of markets overflowing with every fish；
vegetable； and tempting viand； we continue to be the worst fed；
most meagrely nourished of all the wealthy nations on the face of
the earth。 We have a saying （for an excellent reason unknown on
the Continent） that Providence provides us with food and the devil
sends the cooks！ It would be truer to say that the poorer the food
resources of a nation； the more restricted the choice of material；
the better the cooks； a small latitude when providing for the table
forcing them to a hundred clever combinations and mysterious
devices to vary the monotony of their cuisine and tempt a palate；
by custom staled。
Our heedless people； with great variety at their disposition； are
unequal to the situation； wasting and discarding the best； and
making absolutely nothing of their advantages。
If we were enjoying our prodigality by living on the fat of the
land； there would be less reason to reproach ourselves； for every
one has a right to live as he pleases。 But as it is； our foolish
prodigals are spending their substance； while eating the husks！
CHAPTER 30 … The Faubourg of St。 Germain
THERE has been too much said and written in the last dozen years
about breaking down the 〃great wall〃 behind which the aristocrats
of the famous Faubourg； like the Celestials； their prototypes； have
ensconced themselves。 The Chinese speak of outsiders as
〃barbarians。〃 The French ladies refer to such unfortunates as
being 〃beyond the pale。〃 Almost all that has been written is
arrant nonsense； that imaginary barrier exists to…day on as firm a
foundation； and is guarded by sentinels as vigilant as when； forty
years ago； Napoleon （third of the name） and his Spanish spouse
mounted to its assault。
Their repulse was a bitter humiliation to the PARVENUE Empress；
whose resentment took the form （along with many other curious
results） of opening the present Boulevard St。 Germain； its line
being intentionally carried through the heart of that quarter；
teeming with historic 〃Hotels〃 of the old aristocracy； where
beautiful constructions were mercilessly torn down to make way for
the new avenue。 The cajoleries which Eugenie first tried and the
blows that followed were alike unavailing。 Even her worship of
Marie Antoinette； between whom and herself she found imaginary
resemblances； failed to warm the stony hearts of the proud old
ladies； to whom it was as gall and wormwood to see a nobody crowned
in the palace of their kings。 Like religious communities；
persecution only drew this old society more firmly together and
made them stand by each other in their distress。 When the Bois was
remodelled by Napoleon and the lake with its winding drive laid
out； the new Court drove of an afternoon along this water front。
That