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The Prince of Wales makes his headquarters at Cannes where he has
poor luck in sailing the Brittania； for which he consoles himself
with jolly dinners at Monte Carlo。 You can see him almost any
evening in the RESTAURANT DE PARIS； surrounded by his own
particular set； … the Duchess of Devonshire （who started a
penniless German officer's daughter； and became twice a duchess）；
Lady de Grey and Lady Wolverton； both showing near six feet of
slender English beauty； at their side； and lovelier than either；
the Countess of Essex。 The husbands of these 〃Merry Wives〃 are
absent； but do not seem to be missed； as the ladies sit smoking and
laughing over their coffee； the party only breaking up towards
eleven o'clock to try its luck at TRENTE ET QUARANTE； until a
〃special〃 takes them back to Cannes。
He is getting sadly old and fat； is England's heir； the likeness to
his mamma becoming more marked each year。 His voice； too； is oddly
like hers； deep and guttural； more adapted to the paternal German
（which all this family speak when alone） than to his native
English。 Hair； he has none； except a little fringe across the back
of his head； just above a fine large roll of fat that blushes above
his shirt…collar。 Too bad that this discovery of the microbe of
baldness comes rather late for him！ He has a pleasant twinkle in
his small eyes； and an entire absence of POSE； that accounts
largely for his immense and enduring popularity。
But the Hotel Cap Martin shelters quieter crowned heads。 The
Emperor and Empress of Austria； who tramp about the hilly roads；
the King and Queen of Saxony and the fat Arch…duchess Stephanie。
Austria's Empress looks sadly changed and ill； as does another lady
of whom one can occasionally catch a glimpse； walking painfully
with a crutch…stick in the shadow of the trees near her villa。 It
is hard to believe that this white…haired； bent old woman was once
the imperial beauty who from the salons of the Tuileries dictated
the fashions of the world！ Few have paid so dearly for their brief
hour of splendor！
Cannes with its excellent harbor is the centre of interest during
the racing season when the Tsarewitsch comes on his yacht Czaritza。
At the Battle of Flowers； one is pretty sure to see the Duke of
Cambridge； his Imperial Highness； the Grand Duke Michael； Prince
Christian of Denmark； H。R。H。 the Duke of Nassau； H。R。H。 the
Archduke Ferdinand d'Este； their Serene Highnesses of Mecklenburg…
Schwerin and the Saxe…Coburg…Gothas； also H。R。H。 Marie Valerie and
the Schleswig…Holsteins； pelting each other and the public with
CONFETTI and flowers。 Indeed； half the A1MANACH DE GOTHA； that
continental 〃society list；〃 seems to be sunning itself here and
forgetting its cares； on bicycles or on board yachts。 It is said
that the Crown Princess of Honolulu （whoever she may be） honors
Mentone with her presence； and the newly deposed Queen 〃Ranavalo〃
of Madagascar is EN ROUTE to join in the fun。
This crowd of royalty reminds me of a story the old sea…dogs who
gather about the 〃Admirals' corner〃 of the Metropolitan Club in
Washington； love to tell you。 An American cockswain； dazzled by a
doubly royal visit； with attending suites； on board the old
〃Constitution；〃 came up to his commanding officer and touching his
cap； said：
〃Beg pardon； Admiral； but one of them kings has tumbled down the
gangway and broke his leg。〃
It has become a much more amusing thing to wear a crown than it
was。 Times have changed indeed since Marie Laczinska lived the
fifty lonely years of her wedded life and bore her many children；
in one bed…room at Versailles … a monotony only broken by visits to
Fontainebleau or Marly。 Shakespeare's line no longer fits the
case。
Beyond securing rich matches for their children； and keeping a
sharp lookout that the Radicals at home do not unduly cut down
their civil lists； these great ones have little but their
amusements to occupy them。 Do they ever reflect； as they rush
about visiting each other and squabbling over precedence when they
meet； that some fine morning the tax…payers may wake up； and ask
each other why they are being crushed under such heavy loads； that
eight hundred or more quite useless people may pass their lives in
foreign watering…places； away from their homes and their duties？
It will be a bad day for them when the long…suffering subjects say
to them； 〃Since we get on so exceedingly well during your many
visits abroad； we think we will try how it will work without you at
all！〃
The Prince of little Monaco seems to be about the only one up to
the situation； for he at least stays at home； and in connection
with two other gentlemen runs an exceedingly good hotel and several
restaurants on his estates； doing all he can to attract money into
the place； while making the strictest laws to prevent his subjects
gambling at the famous tables。 Now if other royalties instead of
amusing themselves all the year round would go in for something
practical like this； they might become useful members of the
community。 This idea of Monaco's Prince strikes one as most
timely； and as opening a career for other indigent crowned heads。
Hotels are getting so good and so numerous； that without some
especial 〃attraction〃 a new one can hardly succeed； but a
〃Hohenzollern House〃 well situated in Berlin； with William II。 to
receive the tourists at the door； and his fat wife at the desk；
would be sure to prosper。 It certainly would be pleasanter for him
to spend money so honestly earned than the millions wrested from
half…starving peasants which form his present income。 Besides
there is almost as much gold lace on a hotel employee's livery as
on a court costume！
The numerous crowned heads one meets wandering about； can hardly
lull themselves over their 〃games〃 with the flattering unction that
they are of use； for； have they not France before them （which they
find so much to their taste） stronger； richer； more respected than
ever since she shook herself free of such incumbrances？ Not to
mention our own democratic country； which has managed to hold its
own； in spite of their many gleeful predictions to the contrary。
CHAPTER 18 … A Rock Ahead
HAVING had occasion several times during this past season； to pass
by the larger stores in the vicinity of Twenty…third Street； I have
been struck more than ever； by the endless flow of womankind that
beats against the doors of those establishments。 If they were
temples where a beneficent deity was distributing health； learning；
and all the good things of existence； the rush could hardly have
been greater。 It saddened me to realize that each of the eager
women I saw was； on the contrary； dispensing something of her
strength and brain； as well as the wearily earned stipend of the
men of her family （if not her own）； for