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elaborate costume； of which little remained but the bead…work。
That it was the tomb of a man great among his people was evident
from the care with which the grave had been prepared and then
hidden； proving how； hundreds of years before our civilization；
another race had chosen this noble cliff and stately river
landscape as the fitting framework for a great warrior's tomb。
This discovery made no little stir in the scientific world of that
day。 Hundreds came to see it； and as photography had not then come
into the world； many drawings were made and casts taken； and
finally the whole thing was removed to the rooms of the Historical
Society。 From that day the lonely little path held an awful charm
for us。 Our childish readings of Cooper had developed in us that
love of the Indian and his wild life； so characteristic of boyhood
thirty years ago。 On still summer afternoons； the place had a
primeval calm that froze the young blood in our veins。 Although we
prided ourselves on our quality as 〃braves；〃 and secretly pined to
be led on the war…path； we were shy of walking in that vicinity in
daylight； and no power on earth； not even the offer of the tomahawk
or snow…shoes for which our souls longed； would have taken us there
at night。
A place connected in my memory with a tragic association was across
the river on the last southern slope of the Palisades。 Here we
stood breathless while my father told the brief story of the duel
between Burr and Hamilton； and showed us the rock stained by the
younger man's life…blood。 In those days there was a simple iron
railing around the spot where Hamilton had expired； but of later
years I have been unable to find any trace of the place。 The tide
of immigration has brought so deep a deposit of 〃saloons〃 and
suburban 〃balls〃 that the very face of the land is changed； old
lovers of that shore know it no more。 Never were the environs of a
city so wantonly and recklessly degraded。 Municipalities have vied
with millionaires in soiling and debasing the exquisite shores of
our river； that； thirty years ago； were unrivalled the world over。
The glamour of the past still lies for me upon this landscape in
spite of its many defacements。 The river whispers of boyish
boating parties； and the woods recall a thousand childish hopes and
fears； resolute departures to join the pirates； or the red men in
their strongholds … journeys boldly carried out until twilight
cooled our courage and the supper…hour proved a stronger temptation
than war and carnage。
When I sat down this summer evening to write a few lines about
happy days on the banks of the Hudson； I hardly realized how sweet
those memories were to me。 The rewriting of the old names has
evoked from their long sleep so many loved faces。 Arms seem
reaching out to me from the past。 The house is very still tonight。
I seem to be nearer my loved dead than to the living。 The bells of
my lost 〃Is〃 are ringing clear in the silence。
CHAPTER 17 … Royalty At Play
FEW more amusing sights are to be seen in these days； than that of
crowned heads running away from their dull old courts and
functions； roughing it in hotels and villas； gambling； yachting and
playing at being rich nobodies。 With much intelligence they have
all chosen the same Republican playground； where visits cannot
possibly be twisted into meaning any new 〃combination〃 or political
move； thus assuring themselves the freedom from care or
responsibility； that seems to be the aim of their existence。
Alongside of well…to…do Royalties in good paying situations； are
those out of a job； who are looking about for a 〃place。〃 One
cannot take an afternoon's ramble anywhere between Cannes and
Mentone without meeting a half…dozen of these magnates。
The other day； in one short walk； I ran across three Empresses； two
Queens； and an Heir…apparent； and then fled to my hotel； fearing to
be unfitted for America； if I went on 〃keeping such company。〃 They
are knowing enough； these wandering great ones； and after trying
many places have hit on this charming coast as offering more than
any other for their comfort and enjoyment。 The vogue of these
sunny shores dates from their annexation to France； … a price
Victor Emmanuel reluctantly paid for French help in his war with
Austria。 Napoleon III。's demand for Savoy and this littoral； was
first made known to Victor Emmanuel at a state ball at Genoa。
Savoy was his birthplace and his home！ The King broke into a wild
temper； cursing the French Emperor and making insulting allusions
to his parentage； saying he had not one drop of Bonaparte blood in
his veins。 The King's frightened courtiers tried to stop this
outburst； showing him the French Ambassador at his elbow。 With a
superhuman effort Victor Emmanuel controlled himself； and turning
to the Ambassador； said：
〃I fear my tongue ran away with me！〃 With a smile and a bow the
great French diplomatist remarked：
〃SIRE； I am so deaf I have not heard a word your Majesty has been
saying！〃
The fashion of coming to the Riviera for health or for amusement；
dates from the sixties； when the Empress of Russia passed a winter
at Nice； as a last attempt to prolong the existence of the dying
Tsarewitsch； her son。 There also the next season the Duke of
Edinburgh wooed and won her daughter （then the greatest heiress in
Europe） for his bride。 The world moves fast and a journey it
required a matter of life and death to decide on； then； is gayly
undertaken now； that a prince may race a yacht； or a princess try
her luck at the gambling tables。 When one reflects that the 〃royal
caste；〃 in Europe alone； numbers some eight hundred people； and
that the East is beginning to send out its more enterprising
crowned heads to get a taste of the fun； that beyond drawing their
salaries； these good people have absolutely nothing to do； except
to amuse themselves； it is no wonder that this happy land is
crowded with royal pleasure…seekers。
After a try at Florence and Aix； 〃the Queen〃 has been faithful to
Cimiez； a charming site back of Nice。 That gay city is always EN
FETE the day she arrives； as her carriages pass surrounded by
French cavalry； one can catch a glimpse of her big face； and dowdy
little figure； which nevertheless she can make so dignified when
occasion requires。 The stay here is； indeed； a holiday for this
record…breaking sovereign； who potters about her private grounds of
a morning in a donkey…chair； sunning herself and watching her
Battenberg grandchildren at play。 In the afternoon； she drives a
couple of hours … in an open carriage … one outrider in black
livery alone distinguishing her turnout from the others。
The Prince of Wales makes his headquarters at Cannes where he has
poor luck in sailing the Brittania； for which he consoles himself
with jol