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h of friend or foe； cried out he would like to see the man in England that durst give him a blow。 Accepting this as a challenge； Sir Henry dealt him a stroke on the ear； which the other would have returned in anger but that they were speedily parted。
And presently Tom Porter； leaving the house full of resentment for the injury he had received； and of resolution to avenge it； met Mr。 Dryden the poet； to whom he recounted the story。 He concluded by requesting he might have his boy to bring him word which way Sir Henry Bellasis would drive； for fight he would that night； otherwise he felt sure they should be friends in the morning； and the blow would rest upon him。 Dryden complying with his request； Tom Porter； still inflamed by fury； went to a neighbouring coffee…house； when presently word arrived Sir Harry's coach was coming that way。 On this Tom Porter rushed out； stopped the horses； and bade the baronet alight。 〃Why；〃 said the man； who but an hour before had been his best friend； 〃you will not hurt me in coming out； will you？〃 〃No；〃 answered the other shortly。 Sir Henry then descended； and both drew their swords。 Tom Porter asked him if he were ready； and hearing he was； they fought desperately； till of a sudden a sharp cry was heard； Sir Henry's weapon fell upon the ground； and he placed one hand to his side； from which blood flowed freely。 Then calling his opponent to him； he looked in his face reproachfully； kissed him lovingly； and bade him seek safety。 〃For； Tom；〃 said he； struggling hard to speak； 〃thou hast hurt me； but I will make shift to stand upon my legs till thou mayest withdraw； and the world not take notice of you； for；〃 continued he； with much tenderness； 〃I would not have thee troubled for what thou hast done。〃 And the little crowd who had gathered around carried him to his coach and twenty days later they followed him to his grave。
Throughout this merry reign； many fantastic changes took place in the costumes of courtiers and their followers。 At the restoration； the dress most common to women of all ranks consisted of a gown with a laced stomacher and starched neckerchief； a sad…coloured cloak with a French hood； and a high… crowned hat。 Such habiliments； admitting of little variety and less ornament； found no favour in the eyes of those who returned from foreign courts with the king； and therefore a change was gradually effected。 The simple gown of wool and cotton gave place to loose and flowing draperies of silk and satin； the stiff neckerchief was removed to display fair shoulders and voluptuous breasts； the hat was bedecked by feathers of rare plumage and rich colour； the cloaks changed hues from sad to gay； the hoods being of 〃yellow bird's eye；〃 and other bright tints。 Indeed； the prodigal manner in which ladies of quality now exposed their bosoms； though pleasing to the court； became a matter of grave censure to worthy men。 One of these in a pamphlet； entitled 〃A Just and Seasonable Reprehension of Naked Breasts and Shoulders；〃 charges women of fashion with 〃overlacing their gown bodies； and so thrusting up their breasts in order that they might show them half…naked。〃 It was not only at balls and in chambers of entertainment； he avowed； they appeared in this manner； but likewise at church； where their dress was 〃not only immodest； but sometimes impudent and lascivious；〃 for they braved all dangers to have the satisfaction of being seen； and the consolation of giving pleasure。
The riding…habit； first introduced in 1664 caused considerable notice； and no small amount of mirth。 The garb； as it was called； consisted of a doublet buttoned up the breast； a coat with long skirts； a periwig and tall hat； so that women clad in this fashion might be mistaken for men； if it were not for the petticoat which dragged under the coat。 At the commencement of the reign； ladies of the court wore their hair after the French fashion； cut short in front and frizzed upon the forehead。 When the queen arrived； her hair was arranged A LA NEGLIGENCE； a mode declared mighty pretty； but presently a fashion came in vogue of wearing 〃false locks set on wyres to make them stand at a distance from the head； as fardingales made the clothes stand out in Queen Elizabeth's reign。〃 Painting the face； which had been practised during the Commonwealth； became fashionable； as did likewise the use of patches and vizards or masks； which from the convenience they afforded wearers whilst witnessing an immoral play； or conducting a delicate intrigue； came greatly into use。
According to Randal Holmes's notes on dress； in the Harleian Library； the male costume at the restoration consisted of 〃a short…waisted doublet； and petticoat breechesthe lining； being lower than the breeches； is tied above the knees。 The breeches are ornamented with ribands up to the pocket； and half their breadth upon the thigh； the waistband is set about with ribands； and the shirt hanging out over them。〃 This dress gradually increased in richness and ornamentation： the doublet and breeches being changed from cloth to velvet and satin； the hat trimmed with plumes of gay feathers； and the neck adorned with bands of cambric； trimmed with Flanders and Brussels lace。 The perfection and costliness to which the costume eventually reached is best shown by a description of Sir Richard Fanshaw ambassador of the king； as presented in the diary of his spouse。 〃Sir Richard was dressed；〃 she writes； 〃in a very rich suit of clothes of a dark FILLEMONTE brocade； laced with silver and gold lace nine lacesevery one as broad as my hand； and a little silver and gold lace laid between them； both of very curious workmanship； his suit was trimmed with scarlet taffety ribbon； his stockings of white silk upon long scarlet silk ones； his shoes black； with scarlet shoestrings and gaiters； his linen very fine； laced with rich Flanders lace； a black beaver buttoned on the left side with a jewel of twelve hundred pounds' value； a rich curious wrought gold chain； made in the Indies at which hung the king his master's picture； richly set with diamonds； on his fingers he wore two rich rings； his gloves trimmed with the same ribbon as his clothes。〃
The uttermost extravagance and luxury in dress now obtained； indeed； to such a passion and pride did it reach that the monarch resolved on giving it some check by inventing a suit of plainer pretensions； which should become the national costume； and admit no change。
This determination he solemnly declared to his council in October； 1666； and on the 14th of the month appeared clad in a long vest slashed with white silk； reaching the knee； having the sword girt over it； a loose coat； straight Spanish breeches ruffled with black ribbons； and buskins instead of shoes and stockings。 Though the habit was pronounced decent and becoming to his majesty； and was quickly adopted by the courtiers； there were those amongst his friends who offered him a wager he would not persist in wearing it long。 At this the king stated his resolution afresh of never changing； but before the month was out he had made an alteration； for inasmuch as the vest being slashed with white； was said by a wag to make the wearers look like magpies； his majesty