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through the back of the neck。 We took his skin； and also his hind
quarters； and went on。
By the third day from Granite Basin we reached the end of the long
narrow canon with the high cliffs and the dark pine…trees and the very blue
sky。 Therefore we turned sharp to the left and climbed laboriously until
we had come up into the land of big boulders； strange spare twisted little
trees； and the singing of the great wind。
The country here was mainly of granite。 It out… cropped in dikes； it
slid down the slopes in aprons； it strewed the prospect in boulders and
blocks； it seamed the hollows with knife…ridges。 Soil gave the
impression of having been laid on top； you divined the granite beneath it；
and not so very far beneath it； either。 A fine hair…grass grew close to this
soil； as though to produce as many blades as possible in the limited area。
But strangest of all were the little thick twisted trees with the rich
shaded umber color of their trunks。 They occurred rarely； but still in
sufficient regularity to lend the impression of a scattered grove…
cohesiveness。 Their limbs were sturdy and reaching fantastically。 On
each trunk the colors ran in streaks； patches； and gradations from a sulphur
yellow； through browns and red…orange； to a rich red…umber。 They were
like the earth…dwarfs of German legend； come out to view the roof of their
workshop in the interior of the hill； or； more subtly； like some of the more
fantastic engravings of Gustave Dore。
We camped that night at a lake whose banks were pebbled in the
manner of an artificial pond； and whose setting was a thin meadow of the
fine hair… grass； for the grazing of which the horses had to bare their teeth。
All about； the granite mountains rose。 The timber…line； even of the rare
shrub…like gnome… trees； ceased here。 Above us was nothing whatever
but granite rock； snow； and the sky。
It was just before dusk； and in the lake the fish were jumping eagerly。
They took the fly well； and before the fire was alight we had caught three
for supper。 When I say we caught but three； you will understand that
they were of good size。 Firewood was scarce； but we dragged in enough
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by means of Old Slob and a riata to build us a good fire。 And we needed
it； for the cold descended on us with the sharpness and vigor of eleven
thousand feet。
For such an altitude the spot was ideal。 The lake just below us was
full of fish。 A little stream ran from it by our very elbows。 The slight
elevation was level； and covered with enough soil to offer a fairly good
substructure for our beds。 The flat in which was the lake reached on up
narrower and narrower to the foot of the last slope； furnishing for the
horses an admirable natural corral about a mile long。 And the view was
magnificent。
First of all there were the mountains above us； towering grandly serene
against the sky of morning； then all about us the tumultuous slabs and
boulders and blocks of granite among which dare…devil and hardy little
trees clung to a footing as though in defiance of some great force exerted
against them； then below us a sheer drop； into which our brook plunged；
with its suggestion of depths； and finally beyond those depths the giant
peaks of the highest Sierras rising lofty as the sky； shrouded in a calm
and stately peace。
Next day the Tenderfoot and I climbed to the top。 Wes decided at the
last minute that he hadn't lost any mountains； and would prefer to fish。
The ascent was accompanied by much breathlessness and a heavy
pounding of our hearts； so that we were forced to stop every twenty feet to
recover our physical balance。 Each step upward dragged at our feet like
a leaden weight。 Yet once we were on the level； or once we ceased our
very real exertions for a second or so； the difficulty left us； and we
breathed as easily as in the lower altitudes。
The air itself was of a quality impossible to describe to you unless you
have traveled in the high countries。 I know it is trite to say that it had the
exhilaration of wine； yet I can find no better simile。 We shouted and
whooped and breathed deep and wanted to do things。
The immediate surroundings of that mountain peak were absolutely
barren and absolutely still。 How it was accomplished so high up I do not
know； but the entire structure on which we movedI cannot say walked
was composed of huge granite slabs。 Sometimes these were laid side by
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side like exaggerated paving flags； but oftener they were up… ended； piled
in a confusion over which we had precariously to scramble。 And the
silence。 It was so still that the very ringing in our ears came to a
prominence absurd and almost terrifying。 The wind swept by noiseless；
because it had nothing movable to startle into noise。 The solid eternal
granite lay heavy in its statics across the possibility of even a whisper。
The blue vault of heaven seemed emptied of sound。
But the wind did stream by unceasingly； weird in the
unaccustomedness of its silence。 And the sky was blue as a turquoise；
and the sun burned fiercely； and the air was cold as the water of a
mountain spring。
We stretched ourselves behind a slab of granite； and ate the luncheon
we had brought； cold venison steak and bread。 By and by a marvelous
thing happened。 A flash of wings sparkled in the air； a brave little voice
challenged us cheerily； a pert tiny rock… wren flirted his tail and darted his
wings and wanted to know what we were thinking of anyway to enter his
especial territory。 And shortly from nowhere appeared two Canada Jays；
silent as the wind itself； hoping for a share in our meal。 Then the
Tenderfoot discovered in a niche some strange； hardy alpine flowers。 So
we established a connection； through these wondrous brave childr