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APPENDIX B
Heidelberg Castle
Heidelberg Castle must have been very beautiful before
the French battered and bruised and scorched it two hundred
years ago。 The stone is brown； with a pinkish tint；
and does not seem to stain easily。 The dainty and elaborate
ornamentation upon its two chief fronts is as delicately
carved as if it had been intended for the interior of a
drawing…room rather than for the outside of a house。
Many fruit and flower clusters； human heads and grim
projecting lions' heads are still as perfect in every detail
as if they were new。 But the statues which are ranked
between the windows have suffered。 These are life…size
statues of old…time emperors； electors； and similar
grandees； clad in mail and bearing ponderous swords。
Some have lost an arm； some a head； and one poor fellow
is chopped off at the middle。 There is a saying that if
a stranger will pass over the drawbridge and walk across
the court to the castle front without saying anything；
he can made a wish and it will be fulfilled。 But they
say that the truth of this thing has never had a chance
to be proved； for the reason that before any stranger can
walk from the drawbridge to the appointed place； the beauty
of the palace front will extort an exclamation of delight from
him。
A ruin must be rightly situated； to be effective。
This one could not have been better placed。 It stands
upon a commanding elevation； it is buried in green words；
there is no level ground about it； but； on the contrary；
there are wooded terraces upon terraces； and one looks
down through shining leaves into profound chasms and
abysses where twilight reigns and the sun cannot intrude。
Nature knows how to garnish a ruin to get the best effect。
One of these old towers is split down the middle； and one
half has tumbled aside。 It tumbled in such a way as to
establish itself in a picturesque attitude。 Then all it
lacked was a fitting drapery； and Nature has furnished that；
she has robed the rugged mass in flowers and verdure；
and made it a charm to the eye。 The standing half
exposes its arched and cavernous rooms to you； like open；
toothless mouths； there； too； the vines and flowers have
done their work of grace。 The rear portion of the tower
has not been neglected； either； but is clothed with a
clinging garment of polished ivy which hides the wounds
and stains of time。 Even the top is not left bare； but is
crowned with a flourishing group of trees and shrubs。
Misfortune has done for this old tower what it has done
for the human character sometimesimproved it。
A gentleman remarked； one day； that it might have been
fine to live in the castle in the day of its prime；
but that we had one advantage which its vanished
inhabitants lackedthe advantage of having a charming
ruin to visit and muse over。 But that was a hasty idea。
Those people had the advantage of US。 They had the fine
castle to live in； and they could cross the Rhine valley
and muse over the stately ruin of Trifels besides。
The Trifels people； in their day； five hundred years ago；
could go and muse over majestic ruins that have vanished；
now； to the last stone。 There have always been ruins；
no doubt； and there have always been pensive people to sigh
over them； and asses to scratch upon them their names
and the important date of their visit。 Within a hundred
years after Adam left Eden； the guide probably gave
the usual general flourish with his hand and said： 〃Place
where the animals were named； ladies and gentlemen；
place where the tree of the forbidden fruit stood；
exact spot where Adam and Eve first met； and here；
ladies and gentlemen； adorned and hallowed by the names
and addresses of three generations of tourists； we have
the crumbling remains of Cain's altarfine old ruin！〃
Then； no doubt； he taxed them a shekel apiece and let
them go。
An illumination of Heidelberg Castle is one of the
sights of Europe。 The Castle's picturesque shape；
its commanding situation； midway up the steep and
wooded mountainside； its vast sizethese features combine
to make an illumination a most effective spectacle。
It is necessarily an expensive show； and consequently
rather infrequent。 Therefore whenever one of these exhibitions
is to take place； the news goes about in the papers and
Heidelberg is sure to be full of people on that night。
I and my agent had one of these opportunities； and improved it。
About half past seven on the appointed evening we
crossed the lower bridge； with some American students；
in a pouring rain； and started up the road which borders
the Neunheim side of the river。 This roadway was densely
packed with carriages and foot…passengers； the former
of all ages； and the latter of all ages and both sexes。
This black and solid mass was struggling painfully onward；
through the slop； the darkness； and the deluge。
We waded along for three…quarters of a mile； and finally
took up a position in an unsheltered beer…garden directly
opposite the Castle。 We could not SEE the Castleor
anything else； for that matterbut we could dimly
discern the outlines of the mountain over the way；
through the pervading blackness； and knew whereabouts
the Castle was located。 We stood on one of the hundred
benches in the garden； under our umbrellas； the other
ninety…nine were occupied by standing men and women；
and they also had umbrellas。 All the region round about；
and up and down the river…road； was a dense wilderness of
humanity hidden under an unbroken pavement of carriage tops
and umbrellas。 Thus we stood during two drenching hours。
No rain fell on my head； but the converging whalebone
points of a dozen neighboring umbrellas poured little
cooling steams of water down my neck； and sometimes into
my ears； and thus kept me from getting hot and impatient。
I had the rheumatism； too； and had heard that this was
good for it。 Afterward； however； I was led to believe
that the water treatment is NOT good for rheumatism。
There were even little girls in that dreadful place。
A men held one in his arms； just in front of me； for as much
as an hour； with umbrella…drippings soaking into her clothing
all the time。
In the circumstances； two hours was a good while for us
to have to wait； but when the illumination did at last come；
we felt repaid。 It came unexpectedly； of coursethings
always do； that have been long looked and longed for。
With a perfectly breath…taking suddenness several mast
sheaves of varicolored rockets were vomited skyward out
of the black throats of the Castle towers； accompanied by
a thundering crash of sound； and instantly every detail of
the prodigious ruin stood revealed against the mountainside
and glowing with an almost intolerable splendor of fire
and color。 For some little time the whole building was
a blinding crimson mass； the towers continued to spout
thick columns of rockets aloft； and overhead the s