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and smothered with photographs。 Possibly； he will have his outer walls
painted by the local artist： a sanguinary battle； a good deal interfered
with by the front door； taking place below； while Bismarck； as an angel；
flutters vaguely about the bedroom windows。 But for his Old Masters he
is quite content to go to the public galleries； and 〃the Celebrity at Home〃
not having as yet taken its place amongst the institutions of the Fatherland；
he is not impelled to waste his； money turning his house into an old
curiosity shop。
The German is a gourmand。 There are still English farmers who；
while telling you that farming spells starvation； enjoy their seven solid
meals a day。 Once a year there comes a week's feast throughout Russia；
during which many deaths occur from the over… eating of pancakes； but
this is a religious festival； and an exception。 Taking him all round； the
German as a trencherman stands pre…eminent among the nations of the
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earth。 He rises early； and while dressing tosses off a few cups of coffee；
together with half a dozen hot buttered rolls。 But it is not until ten
o'clock that he sits down to anything that can properly be called a meal。 At
one or half…past takes place his chief dinner。 Of this he makes a business；
sitting at it for a couple of hours。 At four o'clock he goes to the cafe； and
eats cakes and drinks chocolate。 The evening he devotes to eating
generallynot a set meal； or rarely； but a series of snacks；a bottle of beer
and a Belegete…semmel or two at seven； say； another bottle of beer and an
Aufschnitt at the theatre between the acts； a small bottle of white wine and
a Spiegeleier before going home； then a piece of cheese or sausage；
washed down by more beer； previous to turning in for the night。
But he is no gourmet。 French cooks and French prices are not the
rule at his restaurant。 His beer or his inexpensive native white wine he
prefers to the most costly clarets or champagnes。 And； indeed； it is well
for him he does； for one is inclined to think that every time a French
grower sells a bottle of wine to a German hotel… or shop…keeper； Sedan is
rankling in his mind。 It is a foolish revenge； seeing that it is not the
German who as a rule drinks it； the punishment falls upon some innocent
travelling Englishman。 Maybe； however； the French dealer remembers
also Waterloo； and feels that in any event he scores。
In Germany expensive entertainments are neither offered nor expected。
Everything throughout the Fatherland is homely and friendly。 The
German has no costly sports to pay for； no showy establishment to
maintain； no purse…proud circle to dress for。 His chief pleasure； a seat at
the opera or concert； can be had for a few marks； and his wife and
daughters walk there in home…made dresses； with shawls over their heads。
Indeed； throughout the country the absence of all ostentation is to English
eyes quite refreshing。 Private carriages are few and far between； and
even the droschke is made use of only when the quicker and cleaner
electric car is not available。
By such means the German retains his independence。 The
shopkeeper in Germany does not fawn upon his customers。 I
accompanied an English lady once on a shopping excursion in Munich。
She had been accustomed to shopping in London and New York； and she
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grumbled at everything the man showed her。 It was not that she was
really dissatisfied； this was her method。 She explained that she could get
most things cheaper and better elsewhere； not that she really thought she
could； merely she held it good for the shopkeeper to say this。 She told
him that his stock lacked tasteshe did not mean to be offensive； as I have
explained； it was her method；that there was no variety about it； that it
was not up to date； that it was commonplace； that it looked as if it would
not wear。 He did not argue with her； he did not contradict her。 He put
the things back into their respective boxes； replaced the boxes on their
respective shelves； walked into the little parlour behind the shop； and
closed the door。
〃Isn't he ever coming back？〃 asked the lady； after a couple of minutes
had elapsed。
Her tone did not imply a question； so much as an exclamation of mere
impatience。
〃I doubt it；〃 I replied。
〃Why not？〃 she asked； much astonished。
〃I expect；〃 I answered； 〃you have bored him。 In all probability he is
at this moment behind that door smoking a pipe and reading the paper。〃
〃What an extraordinary shopkeeper！〃 said my friend； as she gathered
her parcels together and indignantly walked out。
〃It is their way；〃 I explained。 〃There are the goods； if you want them；
you can have them。 If you do not want them； they would almost rather
that you did not come and talk about them。〃
On another occasion I listened in the smoke…room of a German hotel
to a small Englishman telling a tale which； had I been in his place； I
should have kept to myself。
〃It doesn't do；〃 said the little Englishman； 〃to try and beat a German
down。 They don't seem to understand it。 I saw a first edition of The
Robbers in a shop in the Georg Platz。 I went in and asked the price。 It
was a rum old chap behind the counter。 He said： 'Twenty…five marks；'
and went on reading。 I told him I had seen a better copy only a few days
before for twentyone talks like that when one is bargaining； it is
understood。 He asked me 'Where？' I told him in a shop at Leipsig。
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He suggested my returning there and getting it； he did not seem to care
whether I bought the book