按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
over…crowded； its outlying parts lifeless； its one famous street； Unter den
Linden； an attempt to combine Oxford Street with the Champs Elysee；
singularly unimposing； being much too wide for its size； its theatres dainty
and charming； where acting is considered of more importance than
scenery or dress； where long runs are unknown； successful pieces being
played again and again； but never consecutively； so that for a week
running you may go to the same Berlin theatre； and see a fresh play every
night； its opera house unworthy of it； its two music halls； with an
unnecessary suggestion of vulgarity and commonness about them； ill…
77
… Page 78…
THREE MEN ON THE BUMMEL
arranged and much too large for comfort。 In the Berlin cafes and
restaurants； the busy time is from midnight on till three。 Yet most of the
people who frequent them are up again at seven。 Either the Berliner has
solved the great problem of modern life； how to do without sleep； or； with
Carlyle； he must be looking forward to eternity。
Personally； I know of no other town where such late hours are the
vogue； except St。 Petersburg。 But your St。 Petersburger does not get up
early in the morning。 At St。 Petersburg； the music halls； which it is the
fashionable thing to attend AFTER the theatrea drive to them taking half
an hour in a swift sleighdo not practically begin till twelve。 Through
the Neva at four o'clock in the morning you have to literally push your
way； and the favourite trains for travellers are those starting about five
o'clock in the morning。 These trains save the Russian the trouble of
getting up early。 He wishes his friends 〃Good…night；〃 and drives down to
the station comfortably after supper； without putting the house to any
inconvenience。
Potsdam； the Versailles to Berlin； is a beautiful little town； situate
among lakes and woods。 Here in the shady ways of its quiet； far…
stretching park of Sans Souci； it is easy to imagine lean； snuffy Frederick
〃bummeling〃 with shrill Voltaire。
Acting on my advice； George and Harris consented not to stay long in
Berlin； but to push on to Dresden。 Most that Berlin has to show can be
seen better elsewhere； and we decided to be content with a drive through
the town。 The hotel porter introduced us to a droschke driver； under
whose guidance； so he assured us； we should see everything worth seeing
in the shortest possible time。 The man himself； who called for us at nine
o'clock in the morning； was all that could be desired。 He was bright；
intelligent； and well… informed； his German was easy to understand； and
he knew a little English with which to eke it out on occasion。 With the
man himself there was no fault to be found； but his horse was the most
unsympathetic brute I have ever sat behind。
He took a dislike to us the moment he saw us。 I was the first to come
out of the hotel。 He turned his head； and looked me up and down with a
cold； glassy eye； and then he looked across at another horse； a friend of his
78
… Page 79…
THREE MEN ON THE BUMMEL
that was standing facing him。 I knew what he said。 He had an
expressive head； and he made no attempt to disguise his thought。
He said：
〃Funny things one does come across in the summer time； don't one？〃
George followed me out the next moment； and stood behind me。 The
horse again turned his head and looked。 I have never known a horse that
could twist himself as this horse did。 I have seen a camelopard do trick's
with his neck that compelled one's attention； but this animal was more like
the thing one dreams of after a dusty days at Ascot； followed by a dinner
with six old chums。 If I had seen his eyes looking at me from between
his own hind legs； I doubt if I should have been surprised。 He seemed
more amused with George if anything； than with myself。 He turned to
his friend again。
〃Extraordinary； isn't it？〃 he remarked； 〃I suppose there must be some
place where they grow them〃； and then he commenced licking flies off his
own left shoulder。 I began to wonder whether he had lost his mother
when young； and had been brought up by a cat。
George and I climbed in； and sat waiting for Harris。 He came a
moment later。 Myself； I thought he looked rather neat。 He wore a white
flannel knickerbocker suit； which he had had made specially for bicycling
in hot weather； his hat may have been a trifle out of the common； but it did
keep the sun off。
The horse gave one look at him； said 〃Gott in Himmel！〃 as plainly as
ever horse spoke； and started off down Friedrich Strasse at a brisk walk；
leaving Harris and the driver standing on the pavement。 His owner called
to him to stop； but he took no notice。 They ran after us； and overtook us
at the corner of the Dorotheen Strasse。 I could not catch what the man said
to the horse； he spoke quickly and excitedly； but I gathered a few phrases；
such as：
〃Got to earn my living somehow； haven't I？ Who asked for your
opinion？ Aye； little you care so long as you can guzzle。〃
The horse cut the conversation short by turning up the Dorotheen
Strasse on his own account。 I think what he said was：
〃Come on then； don't talk so much。 Let's get the job over； and； where
79
… Page 80…
THREE MEN ON THE BUMMEL
possible； let's keep to the back streets。〃
Opposite the Brandenburger Thor our driver hitched the reins to the
whip； climbed down； and came round to explain things to us。 He pointed
out the Thiergarten； and then descanted to us of the Reichstag House。 He
informed us of its exact height； length； and breadth； after the manner of
guides。 Then he turned his attention to the Gate。 He said it was
constructed of sandstone； in imitation of the 〃Properleer〃 in Athens。
At this point the horse； which had been occupying its leisure licking its