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These; however; had preceded us; so that with the exception of M。 Drouyn de Lhuys; we had the saloon carriage to ourselves。
The party was a very large one; including the Walewskis; the Persignys; the Metternichs … he; the Austrian Ambassador … Prince Henri VII。 of Reuss; Prussian Ambassador; the Prince de la Moskowa; son of Marshal Ney; and the Labedoyeres; amongst the historical names。 Amongst those of art and literature; of whom there were many; the only one whom I made the acquaintance of was Octave Feuillet。 I happened to have brought his 'Comedies et Proverbes' and another of his books with me; never expecting to meet him; this so pleased him that we became allies。 I was surprised to find that he could not even read English; which I begged him to learn for the sake of Shakespeare alone。
We did not see their Majesties till dinner…time。 When the guests were assembled; the women and the men were arranged separately on opposite sides of the room。 The Emperor and Empress then entered; each respectively welcoming those of their own sex; shaking hands and saying some conventional word in passing。 Me; he asked whether I had brought my guns; and hoped we should have a good week's sport。 To each one a word。 Every night during the week we sat down over a hundred to dinner。 The Army was largely represented。 For the first time I tasted here the national frog; which is neither fish nor flesh。 The wine was; of course; supreme; but after every dish a different wine was handed round。 The evening entertainments were varied。 There was the theatre in the Palace; and some of the best of the Paris artistes were requisitioned for the occasion。 With them came Dejazet; then nearly seventy; who had played before Buonaparte。
Almost every night there was dancing。 Sometimes the Emperor would walk through a quadrille; but as a rule he would retire with one of his ministers; though only to a smaller boudoir at the end of the suite; where a couple of whist…tables were ready for the more sedate of the party。 Here one evening I found Prince Metternich showing his Majesty a chess problem; of which he was the proud inventor。 The Emperor asked whether I was fond of chess。 I was very fond of chess; was one of the regular HABITUES of St。 George's Chess Club; and had made a study of the game for years。 The Prince challenged me to solve his problem in four moves。 It was not a very profound one。 I had the hardihood to discover that three; rather obvious moves; were sufficient。 But as I was not Gil Blas; and the Prince was not the Archbishop of Grenada; it did not much matter。 Like the famous prelate; his Excellency proffered his felicitations; and doubtless also wished me 'un peu plus de gout' with the addition of 'un peu moins de perspicacite。'
One of the evening performances was an exhibition of POSES… PLASTIQUES; the subjects being chosen from celebrated pictures in the Louvre。 Theatrical costumiers; under the command of a noted painter; were brought from Paris。 The ladies of the court were carefully rehearsed; and the whole thing was very perfectly and very beautifully done。 All the English ladies were assigned parts。 But; as nearly all these depended less upon the beauties of drapery than upon those of nature; the English ladies were more than a little staggered by the demands of the painter and of the … UNdressers。 To the young and handsome Lady Castlerosse; then just married; was allotted the figure of Diana。 But when informed that; in accordance with the original; the drapery of one leg would have to be looped up above the knee; her ladyship used very firm language; and; though of course perfectly ladylike; would; rendered into masculine terms; have signified that she would 'see the painter d…d first。' The celebrated 'Cruche cassee' of Greuze; was represented by the reigning beauty; the Marquise de Gallifet; with complete fidelity and success。
There was one stage of the performance which neither I nor Lord Castlerosse; both of us newly married; at all appreciated。 This was the privileges of the Green…room; or rather of the dressing…rooms。 The exhibition was given in the ball…room。 On one side of this; until the night of the performances; an enclosure was boarded off。 Within it; were compartments in which the ladies dressed and … undressed。 At this operation; as we young husbands discovered; certain young gentlemen of the court were permitted to assist … I think I am not mistaken in saying that his Majesty was of the number。 What kind of assistance was offered or accepted; Castlerosse and I; being on the wrong side of the boarding; were not in a position to know。
There was a door in the boarding; over which one expected to see; 'No admittance except on business;' or perhaps; 'on pleasure。' At this door I rapped; and rapped again impatiently。 It was opened; only as wide as her face; by the empress。
'What do you want; sir?' was the angry demand。
'To see my wife; madame;' was the submissive reply。
'You can't see her; she is rehearsing。'
'But; madame; other gentlemen … '
'Ah! Mais; c'est un enfantillage! Allez…vous…en。'
And the door was slammed in my face。
'Well;' thought I; 'the right woman is in the right place there; at all events。'
Another little incident at the performance itself also recalled the days and manners of the court of Louis XV。 Between each tableau; which was lighted solely from the raised stage; the lights were put out; and the whole room left in complete darkness。 Whenever this happened; the sounds of immoderate kissing broke out in all directions; accompanied by little cries of resistance and protestation。 Until then; I had always been under the impression that humour of this kind was confined to the servants' hall。 One could not help thinking of another court; where things were managed differently。
But the truth is; these trivial episodes were symptomatic of a pervading tone。 A no inconsiderable portion of the ladies seemed to an outsider to have been invited for the sake of their personal charms。 After what has just been related; one could not help fancying that there were some amongst them who had availed themselves of the privilege which; according to Tacitus; was claimed by Vistilia before the AEdiles。 So far; however; from any of these noble ladies being banished to the Isle of Seriphos; they seemed as much attached to the court as the court to them; and whatever the Roman Emperor might have done; the Emperor of the French was all that was most indulgent。
There were two days' shooting; one day's stag hunting; an expedition to Pierrefonds; and a couple of days spent in riding and skating。 The shooting was very much after the fashion of that already described at Prince Esterhazy's; though of a much more Imperial character。 As in Hungary; the game had been driven into coverts cut down to the height of the waist; with paths thirty to forty yards apart; for the guns。
The weather was cold; with snow on the ground; but it was a beautifully sunny day。 This was the party: the two ambassadors; the Prince de la Moskowa; Persigny; Walewski …