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lanced woefully at door…steps； whereon to pass the night； I gazed piteously through the windows of a cheap cook's shop； where solid wedges of baked pudding； that would have stopped digestion for a month； were advertised for a penny a block。 How rich should I have been if I had had a penny in my pocket！ But I had to turn away in despair。
At last the inspiration came。 I remembered hearing Mr。 Ellice say that he always put up at Douglas' Hotel when he stayed in Edinburgh。 I had very little hope of success； but I was too miserable to hesitate。 It was very late； and everybody might be gone to bed。 I rang the bell。 'I want to see the landlord。'
'Any name？' the porter asked。
'No。' The landlord came； fat； amiable looking。 'May I speak to you in private？' He showed the way to an unoccupied room。 'I think you know Mr。 Ellice？'
'Glenquoich； do you mean？'
'Yes。'
'Oh； very well … he always stays here on his way through。'
'I am his step…son； I left Glenquoich yesterday。 I have lost my luggage； and am left without any money。 Will you lend me five pounds？' I believe if I were in the same strait now； and entered any strange hotel in the United Kingdom at half… past ten at night； and asked the landlord to give me five pounds upon a similar security； he would laugh in my face； or perhaps give me in charge of a policeman。
My host of Douglas' did neither； but opened both his heart and his pocket…book； and with the greatest good humour handed me the requested sum。 What good people there are in this world； which that crusty old Sir Peter Teazle calls 'a d…d wicked one。' I poured out all my trouble to the generous man。 He ordered me an excellent supper； and a very nice room。 And on the following day； after taking a great deal of trouble； he recovered my lost luggage and the priceless treasure it contained。 It was a proud and happy moment when I returned his loan； and convinced him； of what he did not seem to doubt； that I was positively not a swindler。
But the roofless night and the empty belly； consequent on an empty pocket； was a lesson which I trust was not thrown away upon me。 It did not occur to me to do so； but I certainly might have picked a pocket； if … well； if I had been brought up to it。 Honesty； as I have often thought since； is dirt cheap if only one can afford it。
Before departing from my beloved Glenquoich； I must pay a passing tribute to the remarkable qualities of Mrs。 Edward Ellice and of her youngest sister Mrs。 Robert Ellice； the mother of the present member for St。 Andrews。 It was； in a great measure； the bright intelligence； the rare tact； and social gifts of these two ladies that made this beautiful Highland resort so attractive to all comers。
CHAPTER XXXVIII
THE winter of 1854…55 I spent in Rome。 Here I made the acquaintance of Leighton； then six…and…twenty。 I saw a good deal of him； as I lived almost entirely amongst the artists； taking lessons myself in water colours of Leitch。 Music also brought us into contact。 He had a beautiful voice； and used to sing a good deal with Mrs。 Sartoris … Adelaide Kemble … whom he greatly admired； and whose portrait is painted under a monk's cowl； in the Cimabue procession。
Calling on him one morning； I found him on his knees buttering and rolling up this great picture； preparatory to sending it to the Academy。 I made some remark about its unusual size； saying with a sceptical smile； 'It will take up a lot of room。'
'If they ever hang it；' he replied； 'but there's not much chance of that。'
Seeing that his reputation was yet to win； it certainly seemed a bold venture to make so large a demand for space to begin with。 He did not appear the least sanguine。 But it was accepted； and Prince Albert bought it before the Exhibition opened。
Gibson also I saw much of。 He had executed a large alto… rilievo monument of my mother； which is now in my parish church； and the model of which is on the landing of one of the staircases of the National Gallery。 His studio was always an interesting lounge； for he was ever ready to lecture upon antique marbles。 To listen to him was like reading the 'Laocoon；' which he evidently had at his fingers' ends。 My companion through the winter was Mr。 Reginald Cholmondeley； a Cambridge ally； who was studying painting。 He was the uncle of Miss Cholmondeley the well…known authoress； whose mother； by the way； was a first cousin of George Cayley's； and also a great friend of mine。
On my return to England I took up my abode in Dean's Yard； and shared a house there with Mr。 Cayley； the Yorkshire member； and his two sons； the eldest a barrister； and my friend George。 Here for several years we had exceedingly pleasant gatherings of men more or less distinguished in literature and art。 Tennyson was a frequent visitor … coming late； after dinner hours； to smoke his pipe。 He varied a good deal； sometimes not saying a word； but quietly listening to our chatter。 Thackeray also used to drop in occasionally。
George Cayley and I； with the assistance of his father and others； had started a weekly paper called 'The Realm。' It was professedly a currency paper； and also supported a fiscal policy advocated by Mr。 Cayley and some of his parliamentary clique。 Coming in one day； and finding us hard at work； Thackeray asked for information。 We handed him a copy of the paper。 'Ah；' he exclaimed； with mock solemnity； '〃The Rellum；〃 should be printed on vellum。' He too； like Tennyson； was variable。 But this depended on whom he found。 In the presence of a stranger he was grave and silent。 He would never venture on puerile jokes like this of his 'Rellum' … a frequent playfulness； when at his ease； which contrasted so unexpectedly with his impenetrable exterior。 He was either gauging the unknown person； or feeling that he was being gauged。 Monckton Milnes was another。 Seeing me correcting some proof sheets； he said； 'Let me give you a piece of advice； my young friend。 Write as much as you please； but the less you print the better。'
'For me； or for others？'
'For both。'
George Cayley had a natural gift for； and had acquired considerable skill； in the embossing and working of silver ware。 Millais so admired his art that he commissioned him to make a large tea…tray； Millais provided the silver。 Round the border of the tray were beautifully modelled sea…shells； cray…fish； crabs； and fish of quaint forms； in high relief。 Millais was so pleased with the work that he afterwards painted； and presented to Cayley； a fine portrait in his best style of Cayley's son； a boy of six or seven years old。
Laurence Oliphant was one of George Cayley's friends。 Attractive as he was in many ways； I had little sympathy with his religious opinions； nor did I comprehend Oliphant's exalted inspirations； I failed to see their practical bearing； and； at that time I am sorry to say； looked upon him as an amiable faddist。 A special favourite with both of us was William Stirling of Keir。 His great work on the Spanish painters； and his 'Cloister Life of Charles the Fifth；' excited our unbounded admiration； whil