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in the dim space； one could fancy the great little man still there； in his snuff…coloured coat and ruffles； half buried （as on state occasions） in his 'ALLONGE PERUCKE。' A tap of his magic wand starts into life his quaint old…fashioned band； and the powder flies from their wigs。 Soft； distant； ghostly harmonies of the Surprise Symphony float among the rafters； and now； as in a dream； we are listening to … nay； beholding … the glorious process of Creation； till suddenly the mighty chord is struck； and we are startled from our trance by the burst of myriad voices echoing the command and its fulfilment； 'Let there be light： and there was light。'
Only a family party was assembled in the house。 A Baron something； and a Graf something … both relations； … and the son； afterwards Ambassador at St。 Petersburg during the Crimean War。 The latter was married to Lady Sarah Villiers； who was also there。 It is amusing to think that the beautiful daughter of the proud Lady Jersey should be looked upon by the Austrians as somewhat of a MESALLIANCE for one of the chiefs of their nobility。 Certain it is that the young Princess was received by them； till they knew her； with more condescension than enthusiasm。
An air of feudal magnificence pervaded the palace： spacious reception…rooms hung with armour and trophies of the chase； numbers of domestics in epauletted and belaced； but ill… fitting； liveries； the prodigal supply and nationality of the comestibles … wild boar with marmalade； venison and game of all sorts with excellent 'Eingemachtes' and 'Mehlspeisen' galore … a feast for a Gamache or a Gargantua。 But then； all save three； remember； were Germans … and Germans！ Noteworthy was the delicious Chateau Y'quem； of which the Prince declared he had a monopoly … meaning the best； I presume。 After dinner the son； his brother…in…law； and I； smoked our meerschaums and played pools of ECARTE in the young Prince's room。 Magenis； who was much our senior； had his rubber downstairs with the elders。
The life was pleasant enough； but there was one little medieval peculiarity which almost made one look for retainers in goat…skins and rushes on the floor； … there was not a bath （except the Princess's） in the palace！ It was with difficulty that my English servant foraged a tub from the kitchen or the laundry。 As to other sanitary arrangements； they were what they doubtless had been in the days of Almos and his son； the mighty Arped。 In keeping with these venerable customs； I had a sentry at the door of my apartments； to protect me； belike； from the ghosts of predatory barons and marauders。
During the week we had two days' shooting； one in the coverts； quite equal to anything of the kind in England； the other at wild boar。 For the latter； a tract of the Carpathian Mountains had been driven for some days before into a wood of about a hundred acres。 At certain points there were sheltered stands； raised four or five feet from the ground； so that the sportsmen had a commanding view of the broad alley or clearing in front of him； across which the stags or boar were driven by an army of beaters。
I had my own double…barrelled rifle； but besides this； a man with a rack on his back bearing three rifles of the prince's； a loader； and a FORSTER； with a hunting knife or short sword to despatch the wounded quarry。 Out of the first rush of pigs that went by I knocked over two； and； in my keenness； jumped out of the stand with the FORSTER who ran to finish them off。 I was immediately collared and brought back； and as far as I could make out； was taken for a lunatic； or at least for a 'duffer；' for my rash attempt to approach unarmed a wounded tusker。 When we all met at the end of the day； the bag of the five guns was forty…five wild boars。 The biggest … and he was a monster … fell to the rifle of the Prince； as was of course intended。
The old man took me home in his carriage。 It was a beautiful drive。 One's idea of an English park … even such a park as Windsor's … dwindled into that of a pleasure ground； when compared with the boundless territory we drove through。 To be sure； it was no more a park than is the New Forest； but it had all the character of the best English scenery … miles of fine turf； dotted with clumps of splendid trees； and gigantic oaks standing alone in their majesty。 Now and then a herd of red deer were startled in some sequestered glade； but no cattle； no sheep； no sign of domestic care。 Struck with the charm of this primeval wilderness； I made some remark about the richness of the pasture； and wondered there were no sheep to be seen。 'There；' said the old man； with a touch of pride； as he pointed to the blue range of the Carpathians； 'that is my farm。 I will tell you。 All the celebrities of the day who were interested in farming used to meet at Holkham for what was called the sheep…shearing。 I once told your father I had more shepherds on my farm than there were sheep on his。'
CHAPTER XIV
IT WAS with a sorry heart that I bade farewell to my Vienna friends； my musical comrades； the Legation hospitalities； and my faithful little Israelite。 But the colt frisks over the pasture from sheer superfluity of energy； and between one's second and third decades instinctive restlessness … spontaneous movement … is the law of one's being。 'Tis then that 'Hope builds as fast as knowledge can destroy。' The enjoyment we abandon is never so sweet as that we seek。 'Pleasure never is at home。' Happiness means action for its own sake； change； incessant change。
I sought and found it in Bavaria； Bohemia； Russia； all over Germany； and dropped anchor one day in Cracow； a week afterwards in Warsaw。 These were out…of…the…way places then； there were no tourists in those days； I did not meet a single compatriot either in the Polish or Russian town。
At Warsaw I had an adventure not unlike that which befell me at Vienna。 The whole of Europe； remember； was in a state of political ferment。 Poland was at least as ready to rise against its oppressor then as now； and the police was proportionately strict and arbitrary。 An army corps was encamped on the right bank of the Vistula； ready for expected emergencies。 Under these circumstances； passports； as may be supposed； were carefully inspected； except in those of British subjects； the person of the bearer was described … his height； the colour of his hair （if he had any）； or any mark that distinguished him。
In my passport； after my name； was added 'ET SON DOMESTIQUE。' The inspector who examined it at the frontier pointed to this； and； in indifferent German； asked me where that individual was。 I replied that I had sent him with my baggage to Dresden； to await my arrival there。 A consultation thereupon took place with another official； in a language I did not understand； and to my dismay I was informed that I was … in custody。 The small portmanteau I had with me； together with my despatch…box； was seized； the latter contained a quantity of letters and my journal。 Money only was I permitted to retain。
Quite by the way； but adding greatly to my discomf