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Clemens； we have no cigars。' Just then a pedler's wagon stopped at the gate。 In England they call them cheap jacks。 I hailed the merchant and said： 'What have you in your wagon？' 'Well；' he answered； 'I have some Gobelin tapestries； Sevres china； and Japanese cloisonne vases； and a few old masters。' Then I said to him： 'I do not want any of those； but have you cigars； and how much？' The pedler answered： 'Yes； sir； I have some excellent cigars； which I will sell you at seventeen cents a barrel。' I have to explain that a cent is an English farthing。 Then I told him to roll a barrel in。〃
〃It was a great occasion； one of the greatest we ever had in the old State of Connecticut；〃 continued Mark； 〃but I noticed that the guests left unusually early after supper。 The next morning I asked the butler why they left so early。 'Well；' he said； 'Mr。 Clemens； everybody enjoyed the supper； and they were all having a good time until I gave them the cigars。 After the gentleman had taken three puffs； he said： 〃Pomp； you infernal nigger； get me my hat and coat quick。〃 When I went out； my stone walk； which was one hundred yards long from the front door to the gate； was just paved with those cigars。'〃 This specimen of American exaggeration told in Mark Twain's original way made a great hit。
I met Mark Twain at a theatrical supper in London given by Sir Henry Irving。 It was just after his pubIishing firm had failed so disastrously。 It was a notable company of men of letters； playwrights； and artists。 Poor Mark was broken in health and spirits。 He tried to make a speech； and a humorous one； but it saddened the whole company。
I met him again after he had made the money on his remarkable lecture tour around the world； with which he met and paid all his debts。 It was an achievement worthy of the famous effort of Sir Walter Scott。 Jubilant； triumphant； and free； Mark Twain that night was the hero never forgotten by any one privileged to be present。
One year； after strenuous work and unusual difficulties； which； however； had been successfully met； I was completely exhausted。 I was advised to take a short trip to Europe； and； as usual； the four weeks' change of air and occupation was a complete cure。 I decided to include Rome in my itinerary； though I felt that my visit would be something like the experience of Phineas Fogg； who did the whole of Europe and saw all there was of it in ten days。
When I arrived in the Eternal City； my itinerary gave me four days there。 I wanted to see everything and also to meet； if possible； one of the greatest of popes； Leo XIII。 I was armed only with a letter from my accomplished and distinguished friend； Archbishop Corrigan。 I secured the best…known guide； who informed me that my efforts to see the sights within my limited time would be impossible。 Nevertheless； the incentive of an extra large commission dependent upon distances covered and sights seen； led to my going through the streets behind the best team of horses in Rome and pursued by policemen and dogs； and the horses urged on by a driver frantic for reward； and a guide who professionally and financially was doing the stunt of his life。 It was astounding how much ground was really covered in the city of antiquities and art by this devotion to speed and under competent guidance。
When I asked to see the pope； I was informed that his health was not good and audiences had been suspended。 I wrote a letter to the cardinal…secretary； enclosing Archbishop Corrigan's letter； and stated my anxiety to meet His Holiness and the limited time I had。 A few hours afterwards I received a letter from the cardinal stating that the Holy Father appreciated the circumstances； and would be very glad to welcome me in private audience at eleven o'clock the next morning。
When I arrived at the Vatican I was received as a distinguished visitor。 The papal guards were turned out； and I was finally ushered into the room of Cardinal Merry del Val。 He was a young man then and an accomplished diplomat； and most intimately informed on all questions of current interest。 Literature； music； drama； political conditions in Europe were among his accomplishments。 He said the usual formula when a stranger is presented to the pope is for the guest to kneel and kiss his ring。 The pope has decided that all this will be omitted in your case。 He will receive you exactly as an eminent foreigner calling by appointment upon the President of the United States。
When I was ushered into the presence of the pope he left his throne； came forward； grasped me cordially by the hand； and welcomed me in a very charming way。 He was not a well man； and his bloodless countenance was as white and pallid as his robes。 This was all relieved； however； by the brilliancy of his wonderful eyes。
After a few preliminary remarks he plunged into the questions in which he was deeply interested。 He feared the spread of communism and vividly described its efforts to destroy the church； ruin religion； extirpate faith； and predicted that if successful it would destroy civilization。
I told him that I was deeply interested in the encyclical he had recently issued to reconcile or make more harmonious the relations between capital and labor。 He commenced speaking upon that subject； and in a few minutes I saw that I was to be privileged to hear an address from one who as priest and bishop had been one of the most eloquent orators of the age。 In his excitement he leaned forward； grasping the arms of the throne； the color returned to his cheeks； his eyes flashed； his voice was vibrant； and I was the audience； the entranced audience of the best speech I ever heard upon the question of labor and capital。
I was fearful on account of his health； that the exertion might be too great； and so arose to leave。 He again said to me； and taking my hand： 〃I know all about you and am very grateful to you that in your official capacity as president of the New York Central Railroad you are treating so fairly the Catholics。 I know that among your employees twenty…eight thousand are of the Catholic faith； and not one of them has ever known any discrimination because of their belief； but all of them have equal opportunities with the others for the rewards of their profession and protection in their employment。〃
The next day he sent a special messenger for a renewal of the conversation； but unhappily I had left Rome the night before。
During my stay in Rome of four days I had visited most of its antiquities； its famous churches； and spent several hours in the Vatican gallery。 Our American minister； one of the most accomplished of our diplomats； Mr。 William Potter； had also given me a dinner； where I was privileged to meet many celebrities of the time。
Among English statesmen I found in Lord Salisbury an impressive figure。 In a long conversation I had with him at the Foreign Office he talked with great freedom on the relations between the United States and Great Britain。 He was exceedingly anxious that friendly conditions should continue and became most cordial。
The frequent disposition on the part of American politicians to issue a challenge or create eruptions disturbed him。