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the notebook turned up and the work on the new book proceeded。 For a
time it went badly。 He wrote many chapters； only to throw them aside。
He had the feeling that he had somehow lost the knack of descriptive
narrative。 He had become； as it seemed； too didactic。 He thought his
description was inclined to be too literal； his humor manufactured。
These impressions passed； by and by； interest developed； and with it
enthusiasm and confidence。 In a letter to Twichell he reported his
progress：
I was about to write to my publisher and propose some other book； when
the confounded thing ＇the note…book＇ turned up； and down went my heart
into my boots。 But there was now no excuse； so I went solidly to work；
tore up a great part of the MS。 written in Heidelbergwrote and tore up；
continued to write and tear upand at last； reward of patient and noble
persistence； my pen got the old swing again！ Since then I'm glad that
Providence knew better what to do with the Swiss notebook than I did。
Further along in the same letter there breaks forth a true heart…answer
to that voice of the Alps which； once heard； is never wholly silent：
O Switzerland！ The further it recedes into the enriching haze of
time； the more intolerably delicious the charm of it and the cheer
of it and the glory and majesty； and solemnity and pathos of it
grow。 Those mountains had a soul： they thought； they spoke。 And
what a voice it was！ And how real！ Deep down in my memory it is
sounding yet。 Alp calleth unto Alp！ That stately old Scriptural
wording is the right one for God's Alps and God's ocean。 How puny
we were in that awful Presence； and how painless it was to be so！
How fitting and right it seemed； and how stingless was the sense of
our unspeakable insignificance！ And Lord； how pervading were the
repose and peace and blessedness that poured out of the heart of the
invisible Great Spirit of the mountains！
Now what is it？ There are mountains and mountains and mountains in
this world； but only these take you by the heartstrings。 I wonder
what the secret of it is。 Well； time and time and again it has
seemed to me that I must drop everything and flee to Switzerland
once more。 It is a longings deep； strong； tugging longing。 That is
the word。 We must go again； Joe。
CXX
IN MUNICH
That winter in Munich was not recalled as an unpleasant one in after…
years。 His work went well enoughalways a chief source of
gratification。 Mrs。 Clemens and Miss Spaulding found interest in the
galleries； in quaint shops； in the music and picturesque life of that
beautiful old Bavarian town。 The children also liked Munich。 It was
easy for them to adopt any new environment or custom。 The German
Christmas； with its lavish tree and toys and cakes； was an especial
delight。 The German language they seemed fairly to absorb。 Writing to
his mother Clemens said：
I cannot see but that the children speak German as well as they do
English。 Susy often translates Livy's orders to the servants。 I cannot
work and study German at the same time； so I have dropped the latter and
do not even read the language； except in the morning paper to get the
news。
In Munichas was the case wherever they were knownthere were many
callers。 Most Americans and many foreigners felt it proper to call on
Mark Twain。 It was complimentary； but it was wearying sometimes。 Mrs。
Clemens； in a letter written from Venice； where they had received even
more than usual attention； declared there were moments when she almost
wished she might never see a visitor again。
Originally there was a good deal about Munich in the new book； and some
of the discarded chapters might have been retained with advantage。 They
were ruled out in the final weeding as being too serious； along with the
French chapters。 Only a few Italian memories were left to follow the
Switzerland wanderings。
The book does record one Munich event； though transferring it to
Heilsbronn。 It is the incident of the finding of the lost sock in the
vast bedroom。 It may interest the reader to compare what really
happened； as set down in a letter to Twichell； with the story as written
for publication：
Last night I awoke at three this morning； and after raging to myself
for two interminable hours I gave it up。 I rose； assumed a catlike
stealthiness； to keep from waking Livy； and proceeded to dress in
the pitch…dark。 Slowly but surely I got on garment after garment
all down to one sock； I had one slipper on and the other in my hand。
Well； on my hands and knees I crept softly around； pawing and
feeling and scooping along the carpet； and among chair…legs； for
that missing sock； I kept that up； and still kept it up； and kept it
up。 At first I only said to myself； 〃Blame that sock；〃 but that
soon ceased to answer。 My expletives grew steadily stronger and
stronger； and at last； when I found I was lost； I had to sit flat
down on the floor and take hold of something to keep from lifting
the roof off with the profane explosion that was trying to get out
of me。 I could see the dim blur of the window； but of course it was
in the wrong place and could give me no information as to where I
was。 But I had one comfortI had not waked Livy； I believed I
could find that sock in silence if the night lasted long enough。
So I started again and softly pawed all over the place； and sure
enough； at the end of half an hour I laid my hand on the missing
article。 I rose joyfully up and butted the washbowl and pitcher off
the stand； and simply raised so to speak。 Livy screamed； then
said； 〃Who is it？ What is the matter？〃 I said； 〃There ain't
anything the matter。 I'm hunting for my sock。〃 She said； 〃Are you
hunting for it with a club？〃
I went in the parlor and lit the lamp； and gradually the fury
subsided and the ridiculous features of the thing began to suggest
themselves。 So I lay on the sofa with note…book and pencil； and
transferred the adventure to our big room in the hotel at
Heilsbronn； and got it on paper a good deal to my satisfaction。
He wrote with frequency to Howells； and sent him something for the
magazine now and then： the 〃Gambetta Duel〃 burlesque； which would make a
chapter in the book later； and the story of 〃The Great Revolution in
Pitcairn。〃 ＇Included in The Stolen White Elephant volume。 The
〃Pitcairn〃 and 〃Elephant〃 tales were originally chapters in 'A Tramp
Abroad'； also the unpleasant 〃Coffin…box〃 yarn； which Howells rejected
for the Atlantic and generally condemned； though for a time it remained a
favorite with its author。＇
Howells's novel； 'The Lady of the Aroostook'； was then running through
the 'Atlantic'； and in one of his letters Clemens expresses the general
deep satisfaction of his household in that tale：
If your literature has not struck perfection now we are not able to see
what is lacking。 It is all such truthtruth to the life； everywhere
your pen falls it leaves a ph