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take a walk across the fields。 Dorchester is a delightfully peaceful old
place； nestling in stillness and silence and drowsiness。
Dorchester； like Wallingford； was a city in ancient British times； it was
then called Caer Doren； 〃the city on the water。〃 In more recent times
the Romans formed a great camp here； the fortifications surrounding which
now seem like low； even hills。 In Saxon days it was the capital of
Wessex。 It is very old； and it was very strong and great once。 Now it
sits aside from the stirring world； and nods and dreams。
Round Clifton Hampden； itself a wonderfully pretty village； old…
fashioned； peaceful； and dainty with flowers； the river scenery is rich
and beautiful。 If you stay the night on land at Clifton； you cannot do
better than put up at the 〃Barley Mow。〃 It is； without exception； I
should say； the quaintest； most old…world inn up the river。 It stands on
the right of the bridge； quite away from the village。 Its low…pitched
gables and thatched roof and latticed windows give it quite a story…book
appearance； while inside it is even still more once…upon…a…timeyfied。
It would not be a good place for the heroine of a modern novel to stay
at。 The heroine of a modern novel is always 〃divinely tall；〃 and she is
ever 〃drawing herself up to her full height。〃 At the 〃Barley Mow〃 she
would bump her head against the ceiling each time she did this。
It would also be a bad house for a drunken man to put up at。 There are
too many surprises in the way of unexpected steps down into this room and
up into that； and as for getting upstairs to his bedroom； or ever finding
his bed when he got up； either operation would be an utter impossibility
to him。
We were up early the next morning； as we wanted to be in Oxford by the
afternoon。 It is surprising how early one can get up； when camping out。
One does not yearn for 〃just another five minutes〃 nearly so much； lying
wrapped up in a rug on the boards of a boat； with a Gladstone bag for a
pillow； as one does in a featherbed。 We had finished breakfast； and were
through Clifton Lock by half…past eight。
From Clifton to Culham the river banks are flat； monotonous； and
uninteresting； but； after you get through Culhalm Lock … the coldest and
deepest lock on the river … the landscape improves。
At Abingdon； the river passes by the streets。 Abingdon is a typical
country town of the smaller order … quiet； eminently respectable； clean；
and desperately dull。 It prides itself on being old； but whether it can
compare in this respect with Wallingford and Dorchester seems doubtful。
A famous abbey stood here once； and within what is left of its sanctified
walls they brew bitter ale nowadays。
In St。 Nicholas Church； at Abingdon； there is a monument to John
Blackwall and his wife Jane； who both； after leading a happy married
life； died on the very same day； August 21； 1625； and in St。 Helen's
Church； it is recorded that W。 Lee； who died in 1637； 〃had in his
lifetime issue from his loins two hundred lacking but three。〃 If you
work this out you will find that Mr。 W。 Lee's family numbered one hundred
and ninety…seven。 Mr。 W。 Lee … five times Mayor of Abingdon … was； no
doubt； a benefactor to his generation； but I hope there are not many of
his kind about in this overcrowded nineteenth century。
From Abingdon to Nuneham Courteney is a lovely stretch。 Nuneham Park is
well worth a visit。 It can be viewed on Tuesdays and Thursdays。 The
house contains a fine collection of pictures and curiosities； and the
grounds are very beautiful。
The pool under Sandford lasher； just behind the lock； is a very good
place to drown yourself in。 The undercurrent is terribly strong； and if
you once get down into it you are all right。 An obelisk marks the spot
where two men have already been drowned； while bathing there； and the
steps of the obelisk are generally used as a diving…board by young men
now who wish to see if the place really IS dangerous。
Iffley Lock and Mill； a mile before you reach Oxford； is a favourite
subject with the river…loving brethren of the brush。 The real article；
however； is rather disappointing； after the pictures。 Few things； I have
noticed； come quite up to the pictures of them； in this world。
We passed through Iffley Lock at about half…past twelve； and then； having
tidied up the boat and made all ready for landing； we set to work on our
last mile。
Between Iffley and Oxford is the most difficult bit of the river I know。
You want to be born on that bit of water； to understand it。 I have been
over it a fairish number of times； but I have never been able to get the
hang of it。 The man who could row a straight course from Oxford to
Iffley ought to be able to live comfortably； under one roof； with his
wife； his mother…in…law； his elder sister； and the old servant who was in
the family when he was a baby。
First the current drives you on to the right bank； and then on to the
left； then it takes you out into the middle； turns you round three times；
and carries you up stream again； and always ends by trying to smash you
up against a college barge。
Of course； as a consequence of this； we got in the way of a good many
other boats； during the mile； and they in ours； and； of course； as a
consequence of that； a good deal of bad language occurred。
I don't know why it should be； but everybody is always so exceptionally
irritable on the river。 Little mishaps； that you would hardly notice on
dry land； drive you nearly frantic with rage； when they occur on the
water。 When Harris or George makes an ass of himself on dry land； I
smile indulgently； when they behave in a chuckle…head way on the river； I
use the most blood…curdling language to them。 When another boat gets in
my way； I feel I want to take an oar and kill all the people in it。
The mildest tempered people； when on land； become violent and blood…
thirsty when in a boat。 I did a little boating once with a young lady。
She was naturally of the sweetest and gentlest disposition imaginable；
but on the river it was quite awful to hear her。
〃Oh； drat the man！〃 she would exclaim； when some unfortunate sculler
would get in her way； 〃why don't he look where he's going？〃
And； 〃Oh； bother the silly old thing！〃 she would say indignantly； when
the sail would not go up properly。 And she would catch hold of it； and
shake it quite brutally。
Yet； as I have said； when on shore she was kind…hearted and amiable
enough。
The air of the river has a demoralising effect upon one's temper； and
this it is； I suppose； which causes even barge men to be sometimes rude
to one another； and to use language which； no doubt； in their calmer
moments they regret。
CHAPTER XIX。
OXFORD。 … MONTMORENCY'S IDEA OF HEAVEN。 … THE HIRED UP…RIVER BOAT； ITS
BEAUTIES AND ADVANTAGES。 … T