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bridge； in exactly the same spot that we were when I began； and there
were those two idiots； injuring themselves by violent laughing。 I had
been grinding away like mad to keep that boat stuck still under that
bridge。 I let other people pull up backwaters against strong streams
now。
We sculled up to Walton； a rather large place for a riverside town。 As
with all riverside places； only the tiniest corner of it comes down to
the water； so that from the boat you might fancy it was a village of some
half…dozen houses； all told。 Windsor and Abingdon are the only towns
between London and Oxford that you can really see anything of from the
stream。 All the others hide round corners； and merely peep at the river
down one street： my thanks to them for being so considerate； and leaving
the river…banks to woods and fields and water…works。
Even Reading； though it does its best to spoil and sully and make hideous
as much of the river as it can reach； is good…natured enough to keep its
ugly face a good deal out of sight。
Caesar； of course； had a little place at Walton … a camp； or an
entrenchment； or something of that sort。 Caesar was a regular up…river
man。 Also Queen Elizabeth； she was there； too。 You can never get away
from that woman； go where you will。 Cromwell and Bradshaw （not the guide
man； but the King Charles's head man） likewise sojourned here。 They must
have been quite a pleasant little party； altogether。
There is an iron 〃scold's bridle〃 in Walton Church。 They used these
things in ancient days for curbing women's tongues。 They have given up
the attempt now。 I suppose iron was getting scarce； and nothing else
would be strong enough。
There are also tombs of note in the church； and I was afraid I should
never get Harris past them； but he didn't seem to think of them； and we
went on。 Above the bridge the river winds tremendously。 This makes it
look picturesque； but it irritates you from a towing or sculling point of
view； and causes argument between the man who is pulling and the man who
is steering。
You pass Oatlands Park on the right bank here。 It is a famous old place。
Henry VIII。 stole it from some one or the other； I forget whom now； and
lived in it。 There is a grotto in the park which you can see for a fee；
and which is supposed to be very wonderful； but I cannot see much in it
myself。 The late Duchess of York； who lived at Oatlands； was very fond
of dogs； and kept an immense number。 She had a special graveyard made；
in which to bury them when they died； and there they lie； about fifty of
them； with a tombstone over each； and an epitaph inscribed thereon。
Well； I dare say they deserve it quite as much as the average Christian
does。
At 〃Corway Stakes〃 … the first bend above Walton Bridge … was fought a
battle between Caesar and Cassivelaunus。 Cassivelaunus had prepared the
river for Caesar； by planting it full of stakes （and had； no doubt； put
up a notice…board）。 But Caesar crossed in spite of this。 You couldn't
choke Caesar off that river。 He is the sort of man we want round the
backwaters now。
Halliford and Shepperton are both pretty little spots where they touch
the river； but there is nothing remarkable about either of them。 There
is a tomb in Shepperton churchyard； however； with a poem on it； and I was
nervous lest Harris should want to get out and fool round it。 I saw him
fix a longing eye on the landing…stage as we drew near it； so I managed；
by an adroit movement； to jerk his cap into the water； and in the
excitement of recovering that； and his indignation at my clumsiness； he
forgot all about his beloved graves。
At Weybridge； the Wey （a pretty little stream； navigable for small boats
up to Guildford； and one which I have always been making up my mind to
explore； and never have）； the Bourne； and the Basingstoke Canal all enter
the Thames together。 The lock is just opposite the town； and the first
thing that we saw； when we came in view of it； was George's blazer on one
of the lock gates； closer inspection showing that George was inside it。
Montmorency set up a furious barking； I shrieked； Harris roared； George
waved his hat； and yelled back。 The lock…keeper rushed out with a drag；
under the impression that somebody had fallen into the lock； and appeared
annoyed at finding that no one had。
George had rather a curious oilskin…covered parcel in his hand。 It was
round and flat at one end； with a long straight handle sticking out of
it。
〃What's that？〃 said Harris … 〃a frying…pan？〃
〃No；〃 said George； with a strange； wild look glittering in his eyes；
〃they are all the rage this season； everybody has got them up the river。
It's a banjo。〃
〃I never knew you played the banjo！〃 cried Harris and I； in one breath。
〃Not exactly；〃 replied George： 〃but it's very easy； they tell me； and
I've got the instruction book！〃
CHAPTER IX。
GEORGE IS INTRODUCED TO WORK。 … HEATHENISH INSTINCTS OF TOW…LINES。 …
UNGRATEFUL CONDUCT OF A DOUBLE…SCULLING SKIFF。 … TOWERS AND TOWED。 … A
USE DISCOVERED FOR LOVERS。 … STRANGE DISAPPEARANCE OF AN ELDERLY LADY。 …
MUCH HASTE； LESS SPEED。 … BEING TOWED BY GIRLS： EXCITING SENSATION。 … THE
MISSING LOCK OR THE HAUNTED RIVER。 … MUSIC。 … SAVED！
WE made George work； now we had got him。 He did not want to work； of
course； that goes without saying。 He had had a hard time in the City； so
he explained。 Harris； who is callous in his nature； and not prone to
pity； said：
〃Ah！ and now you are going to have a hard time on the river for a change；
change is good for everyone。 Out you get！〃
He could not in conscience … not even George's conscience … object；
though he did suggest that； perhaps； it would be better for him to stop
in the boat； and get tea ready； while Harris and I towed； because getting
tea was such a worrying work； and Harris and I looked tired。 The only
reply we made to this； however； was to pass him over the tow…line； and he
took it； and stepped out。
There is something very strange and unaccountable about a tow…line。 You
roll it up with as much patience and care as you would take to fold up a
new pair of trousers； and five minutes afterwards； when you pick it up；
it is one ghastly； soul…revolting tangle。
I do not wish to be insulting； but I firmly believe that if you took an
average tow…line； and stretched it out straight across the middle of a
field； and then turned your back on it for thirty seconds； that； when you
looked round again； you would find that it had got itself altogether in a
heap in the middle of the field； and had twisted itself up； and tied
itself into knots； and lost its two ends； and become all loops； and it
would take you a good half…hour； sitting down there on the grass and
swearing all the while； to disentangle it again。
That is my opinion of tow…lines in gene