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emphasis of the 〃they〃 〃It is true； they did not make them so
recently； but they do now。〃 Of what use this measuring of me if she
does not measure my character； but only the breadth of my shoulders；
as it were a peg to bang the coat on？ We worship not the Graces；
nor the Parcae； but Fashion。 She spins and weaves and cuts with
full authority。 The head monkey at Paris puts on a traveller's cap；
and all the monkeys in America do the same。 I sometimes despair of
getting anything quite simple and honest done in this world by the
help of men。 They would have to be passed through a powerful press
first； to squeeze their old notions out of them； so that they would
not soon get upon their legs again； and then there would be some one
in the company with a maggot in his head； hatched from an egg
deposited there nobody knows when； for not even fire kills these
things； and you would have lost your labor。 Nevertheless； we will
not forget that some Egyptian wheat was handed down to us by a
mummy。
On the whole； I think that it cannot be maintained that dressing
has in this or any country risen to the dignity of an art。 At
present men make shift to wear what they can get。 Like shipwrecked
sailors； they put on what they can find on the beach； and at a
little distance； whether of space or time； laugh at each other's
masquerade。 Every generation laughs at the old fashions； but
follows religiously the new。 We are amused at beholding the costume
of Henry VIII； or Queen Elizabeth； as much as if it was that of the
King and Queen of the Cannibal Islands。 All costume off a man is
pitiful or grotesque。 It is only the serious eye peering from and
the sincere life passed within it which restrain laughter and
consecrate the costume of any people。 Let Harlequin be taken with a
fit of the colic and his trappings will have to serve that mood too。
When the soldier is hit by a cannonball； rags are as becoming as
purple。
The childish and savage taste of men and women for new patterns
keeps how many shaking and squinting through kaleidoscopes that they
may discover the particular figure which this generation requires
today。 The manufacturers have learned that this taste is merely
whimsical。 Of two patterns which differ only by a few threads more
or less of a particular color； the one will be sold readily； the
other lie on the shelf； though it frequently happens that after the
lapse of a season the latter becomes the most fashionable。
Comparatively； tattooing is not the hideous custom which it is
called。 It is not barbarous merely because the printing is
skin…deep and unalterable。
I cannot believe that our factory system is the best mode by
which men may get clothing。 The condition of the operatives is
becoming every day more like that of the English； and it cannot be
wondered at； since； as far as I have heard or observed； the
principal object is； not that mankind may be well and honestly clad；
but； unquestionably； that corporations may be enriched。 In the long
run men hit only what they aim at。 Therefore； though they should
fail immediately； they had better aim at something high。
As for a Shelter； I will not deny that this is now a necessary
of life； though there are instances of men having done without it
for long periods in colder countries than this。 Samuel Laing says
that 〃the Laplander in his skin dress； and in a skin bag which he
puts over his head and shoulders； will sleep night after night on
the snow 。。。 in a degree of cold which would extinguish the life of
one exposed to it in any woollen clothing。〃 He had seen them asleep
thus。 Yet he adds； 〃They are not hardier than other people。〃 But；
probably； man did not live long on the earth without discovering the
convenience which there is in a house； the domestic comforts； which
phrase may have originally signified the satisfactions of the house
more than of the family； though these must be extremely partial and
occasional in those climates where the house is associated in our
thoughts with winter or the rainy season chiefly； and two thirds of
the year； except for a parasol； is unnecessary。 In our climate； in
the summer； it was formerly almost solely a covering at night。 In
the Indian gazettes a wigwam was the symbol of a day's march； and a
row of them cut or painted on the bark of a tree signified that so
many times they had camped。 Man was not made so large limbed and
robust but that he must seek to narrow his world and wall in a space
such as fitted him。 He was at first bare and out of doors； but
though this was pleasant enough in serene and warm weather； by
daylight； the rainy season and the winter； to say nothing of the
torrid sun； would perhaps have nipped his race in the bud if he had
not made haste to clothe himself with the shelter of a house。 Adam
and Eve； according to the fable； wore the bower before other
clothes。 Man wanted a home； a place of warmth； or comfort； first of
warmth； then the warmth of the affections。
We may imagine a time when； in the infancy of the human race；
some enterprising mortal crept into a hollow in a rock for shelter。
Every child begins the world again； to some extent； and loves to
stay outdoors； even in wet and cold。 It plays house； as well as
horse； having an instinct for it。 Who does not remember the
interest with which； when young； he looked at shelving rocks； or any
approach to a cave？ It was the natural yearning of that portion；
any portion of our most primitive ancestor which still survived in
us。 From the cave we have advanced to roofs of palm leaves； of bark
and boughs； of linen woven and stretched； of grass and straw； of
boards and shingles； of stones and tiles。 At last； we know not what
it is to live in the open air； and our lives are domestic in more
senses than we think。 From the hearth the field is a great
distance。 It would be well； perhaps； if we were to spend more of
our days and nights without any obstruction between us and the
celestial bodies； if the poet did not speak so much from under a
roof； or the saint dwell there so long。 Birds do not sing in caves；
nor do doves cherish their innocence in dovecots。
However； if one designs to construct a dwelling…house； it
behooves him to exercise a little Yankee shrewdness； lest after all
he find himself in a workhouse； a labyrinth without a clue； a
museum； an almshouse； a prison； or a splendid mausoleum instead。
Consider first how slight a shelter is absolutely necessary。 I have
seen Penobscot Indians； in this town； living in tents of thin cotton
cloth； while the snow was nearly a foot deep around them； and I
thought that they would be glad to have it deeper to keep out the
wind。 Formerly； when how to get my living honestly； with freedom
left for my proper pursuits； was a question which vexed me even more
than it does now； for unfortunately I am become somewhat callous； I
used to see a large box by the railroad； six feet long by three