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its quality。 Quality; however; is so very disputable a matter
that I look upon all information of this kind as somewhat
uncertain。 In the clothing manufacture; the division of labour is
nearly the same now as it was a century ago; and the machinery
employed is not very different。 There may; however; have been
some small improvements in both; which may have occasioned some
reduction of price。
But the reduction will appear much more sensible and
undeniable if we compare the price of this manufacture in the
present times with what it was in a much remoter period; towards
the end of the fifteenth century; when the labour was probably
much less subdivided; and the machinery employed much more
imperfect; than it is at present。
In 1487; being the 4th of Henry VII; it was enacted that
〃whosoever shall sell by retail a broad yard of the finest
scarlet grained; or of other grained cloth of the finest making;
above sixteen shillings; shall forfeit forty shillings for every
yard so sold。〃 Sixteen shillings; therefore; containing about the
same quantity of silver as four…and…twenty shillings of our
present money; was; at that time; reckoned not an unreasonable
price for a yard of the finest cloth; and as this is a sumptuary
law; such cloth; it is probable; had usually been sold somewhat
dearer。 A guinea may be reckoned the highest price in the present
times。 Even though the quality of the cloths; therefore; should
be supposed equal; and that of the present times is most probably
much superior; yet; even upon this supposition; the money price
of the finest cloth appears to have been considerably reduced
since the end of the fifteenth century。 But its real price has
been much more reduced。 Six shillings and eightpence was then;
and long afterwards; reckoned the average price of a quarter of
wheat。 Sixteen shillings; therefore; was the price of two
quarters and more than three bushels of wheat。 Valuing a quarter
of wheat in the present times at eight…and…twenty shillings; the
real price of a yard of fine cloth must; in those times; have
been equal to at least three pounds six shillings and sixpence of
our present money。 The man who bought it must have parted with
the command of a quantity of labour and subsistence equal to what
that sum would purchase in the present times。
The reduction in the real price of the coarse manufacture;
though considerable; has not been so great as in that of the
fine。
In 1643; being the 3rd of Edward IV; it was enacted that 〃no
servant in husbandry; nor common labourer; nor servant to any
artificer inhabiting out of a city or burgh shall use or wear in
their clothing any cloth above two shillings the broad yard。〃 In
the 3rd of Edward IV; two shillings contained very nearly the
same quantity of silver as four of our present money。 But the
Yorkshire cloth which is now sold at four shillings the yard is
probably much superior to any that was then made for the wearing
of the very poorest order of common servants。 Even the money
price of their clothing; therefore; may; in proportion to the
quality; be somewhat cheaper in the present than it was in those
ancient times。 The real price is certainly a good deal cheaper。
Tenpence was then reckoned what is called the moderate and
reasonable price of a bushel of wheat。 Two shillings; therefore;
was the price of two bushels and near two pecks of wheat; which
in the present times; at three shillings and sixpence the bushel;
would be worth eight shillings and ninepence。 For a yard of this
cloth the poor servant must have parted with the power of
purchasing a quantity of subsistence equal to what eight
shillings and ninepence would purchase in the present times。 This
is a sumptuary law too; restraining the luxury and extravagance
of the poor。 Their clothing; therefore; had commonly been much
more expensive。
The same order of people are; by the same law; prohibited
from wearing hose; of which the price should exceed fourteenpence
the pair; equal to about eight…and…twentypence of our present
money。 But fourteenpence was in those times the price of a bushel
and near two pecks of wheat; which; in the present times; at
three and sixpence the bushel; would cost five shillings and
threepence。 We should in the present times consider this as a
very high price for a pair of stockings; to a servant of the
poorest and lowest order。 He must; however; in those times have
paid what was really equivalent to this price for them。
In the time of Edward IV the art of knitting stockings was
probably not known in any part of Europe。 Their hose were made of
common cloth; which may have been one of the causes of their
dearness。 The first person that wore stockings in England is said
to have been Queen Elizabeth。 She received them as a present from
the Spanish ambassador。
Both in the coarse and in the fine woollen manufacture; the
machinery employed was much more imperfect in those ancient than
it is in the present times。 It has since received three very
capital improvements; besides; probably; many smaller ones of
which it may be difficult to ascertain either the number or the
importance。 The three capital improvements are: first; the
exchange of the rock and spindle for the spinning…wheel; which;
with the same quantity of labour; will perform more than double
the quantity of work。 Secondly; the use of several very ingenious
machines which facilitate and abridge in a still greater
proportion the winding of the worsted and woollen yarn; or the
proper arrangement of the warp and woof before they are put into
the loom; an operation which; previous to the invention of those
machines; must have been extremely tedious and troublesome。
Thirdly; the employment of the fulling mill for thickening the
cloth; instead of treading it in water。 Neither wind nor water
mills of any kind were known in England so early as the beginning
of the sixteenth century; nor; so far as I know; in any other
part of Europe north of the Alps。 They had been introduced into
Italy some time before。
The consideration of these circumstances may; perhaps; in
some measure explain to us why the real price both of the coarse
and of the fine manufacture was so much higher in those ancient
than it is in the present times。 It cost a greater quantity of
labour to bring the goods to market。 When they were brought
thither; therefore; they must have purchased or exchanged for the
price of a greater quantity。
The coarse manufacture probably was; in those ancient times;
carried on in England; in the same manner as it always has been
in countries where arts and manufactures are in their infancy。 It
was probably a household manufacture; in which every different
part of the work was occasionally performed by all the different
members of almost every private family; but so as to be their
work only when they had nothing else to do; and not to be the
principal business from which