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each his followers to maintain the dignity of the clan； fought a
formal battle； in which several considerable men fell on the side
of Mackintosh； without a complete victory to either。 This is said
to have been the last open war made between the clans by their own
authority。
The Highland lords made treaties； and formed alliances； of which
some traces may still be found； and some consequences still remain
as lasting evidences of petty regality。 The terms of one of these
confederacies were； that each should support the other in the
right； or in the wrong； except against the king。
The inhabitants of mountains form distinct races； and are careful
to preserve their genealogies。 Men in a small district necessarily
mingle blood by intermarriages； and combine at last into one
family； with a common interest in the honour and disgrace of every
individual。 Then begins that union of affections； and co…operation
of endeavours； that constitute a clan。 They who consider
themselves as ennobled by their family； will think highly of their
progenitors； and they who through successive generations live
always together in the same place； will preserve local stories and
hereditary prejudices。 Thus every Highlander can talk of his
ancestors； and recount the outrages which they suffered from the
wicked inhabitants of the next valley。
Such are the effects of habitation among mountains； and such were
the qualities of the Highlanders； while their rocks secluded them
from the rest of mankind； and kept them an unaltered and
discriminated race。 They are now losing their distinction； and
hastening to mingle with the general community。
GLENELG
We left Auknasheals and the Macraes its the afternoon； and in the
evening came to Ratiken； a high hill on which a road is cut； but so
steep and narrow； that it is very difficult。 There is now a design
of making another way round the bottom。 Upon one of the
precipices； my horse； weary with the steepness of the rise；
staggered a little； and I called in haste to the Highlander to hold
him。 This was the only moment of my journey； in which I thought
myself endangered。
Having surmounted the hill at last； we were told that at Glenelg；
on the sea…side； we should come to a house of lime and slate and
glass。 This image of magnificence raised our expectation。 At last
we came to our inn weary and peevish； and began to inquire for meat
and beds。
Of the provisions the negative catalogue was very copious。 Here
was no meat； no milk； no bread； no eggs； no wine。 We did not
express much satisfaction。 Here however we were to stay。 Whisky
we might have； and I believe at last they caught a fowl and killed
it。 We had some bread； and with that we prepared ourselves to be
contented； when we had a very eminent proof of Highland
hospitality。 Along some miles of the way； in the evening； a
gentleman's servant had kept us company on foot with very little
notice on our part。 He left us near Glenelg； and we thought on him
no more till he came to us again； in about two hours； with a
present from his master of rum and sugar。 The man had mentioned
his company； and the gentleman； whose name； I think； is Gordon；
well knowing the penury of the place； had this attention to two
men； whose names perhaps he had not heard； by whom his kindness was
not likely to be ever repaid； and who could be recommended to him
only by their necessities。
We were now to examine our lodging。 Out of one of the beds； on
which we were to repose； started up； at our entrance； a man black
as a Cyclops from the forge。 Other circumstances of no elegant
recital concurred to disgust us。 We had been frighted by a lady at
Edinburgh； with discouraging representations of Highland lodgings。
Sleep； however； was necessary。 Our Highlanders had at last found
some hay； with which the inn could not supply them。 I directed
them to bring a bundle into the room； and slept upon it in my
riding coat。 Mr。 Boswell being more delicate； laid himself sheets
with hay over and under him； and lay in linen like a gentleman。
SKY。 ARMIDEL
In the morning； September the second； we found ourselves on the
edge of the sea。 Having procured a boat； we dismissed our
Highlanders； whom I would recommend to the service of any future
travellers； and were ferried over to the Isle of Sky。 We landed at
Armidel； where we were met on the sands by Sir Alexander Macdonald；
who was at that time there with his lady； preparing to leave the
island and reside at Edinburgh。
Armidel is a neat house； built where the Macdonalds had once a
seat； which was burnt in the commotions that followed the
Revolution。 The walled orchard； which belonged to the former
house； still remains。 It is well shaded by tall ash trees； of a
species； as Mr。 Janes the fossilist informed me； uncommonly
valuable。 This plantation is very properly mentioned by Dr。
Campbell； in his new account of the state of Britain； and deserves
attention； because it proves that the present nakedness of the
Hebrides is not wholly the fault of Nature。
As we sat at Sir Alexander's table； we were entertained； according
to the ancient usage of the North； with the melody of the bagpipe。
Everything in those countries has its history。 As the bagpiper was
playing； an elderly Gentleman informed us； that in some remote
time； the Macdonalds of Glengary having been injured； or offended
by the inhabitants of Culloden； and resolving to have justice or
vengeance； came to Culloden on a Sunday； where finding their
enemies at worship； they shut them up in the church； which they set
on fire； and this； said he； is the tune that the piper played while
they were burning。
Narrations like this； however uncertain； deserve the notice of the
traveller； because they are the only records of a nation that has
no historians； and afford the most genuine representation of the
life and character of the ancient Highlanders。
Under the denomination of Highlander are comprehended in Scotland
all that now speak the Erse language； or retain the primitive
manners； whether they live among the mountains or in the islands；
and in that sense I use the name； when there is not some apparent
reason for making a distinction。
In Sky I first observed the use of Brogues； a kind of artless
shoes； stitched with thongs so loosely； that though they defend the
foot from stones； they do not exclude water。 Brogues were formerly
made of raw hides； with the hair inwards； and such are perhaps
still used in rude and remote parts； but they are said not to last
above two days。 Where life is somewhat improved； they are now made
of leather tanned with oak bark； as in other places； or with the
bark of birch； or roots of tormentil； a substance recommended in
defect of bark； about forty years ago； to the Irish tanners； by one
to whom the parliament of that kingdom voted a reward。 The leather
of Sky is not completely penetrated by vegetable matter； and
therefore cannot be very durable。
My inquiries about brogues； gave me an early specimen of Highland
information。 One day I was told； that to make brogues was a
domestick art； which every man practised for himself； a