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of Provence； and therefore reunited it to the crown of France； which accordingly took possession； though it was afterwards restored to the Roman see at the peace of Pisa。 The pope； however； holds it by a precarious title； at the mercy of the French king； who may one day be induced to resume it； upon payment of the original purchase…money。 As a succession of popes resided here for the space of seventy years； the city could not fail to be adorned with a great number of magnificent churches and convents； which are richly embellished with painting； sculpture； shrines； reliques； and tombs。 Among the last； is that of the celebrated Laura； whom Petrarch has immortalized by his poetry； and for whom Francis I。 of France took the trouble to write an epitaph。 Avignon is governed by a vice…legate from the pope； and the police of the city is regulated by the consuls。
It is a large place； situated in a fruitful plain； surrounded by high walls built of hewn stone； which on the west side are washed by the Rhone。 Here was a noble bridge over the river； but it is now in ruins。 On the other side； a branch of the Sorgue runs through part of the city。 This is the river anciently called Sulga； formed by the famous fountain of Vaucluse in this neighbourhood； where the poet Petrarch resided。 It is a charming transparent stream； abounding with excellent trout and craw…fish。 We passed over it on a stone bridge； in our way to Orange； the Arausio Cavarum of the Romans； still distinguished by some noble monuments of antiquity。 These consist of a circus； an aqueduct； a temple； and a triumphal arch； which last was erected in honour of Caius Marius； and Luctatius Catulus； after the great victory they obtained in this country over the Cimbri and Teutones。 It is a very magnificent edifice； adorned on all sides with trophies and battles in basso relievo。 The ornaments of the architecture； and the sculpture； are wonderfully elegant for the time in which it was erected； and the whole is surprisingly well preserved； considering its great antiquity。 It seems to me to be as entire and perfect as the arch of Septimius Severus at Rome。 Next day we passed two very impetuous streams； the Drome and the Isere。 The first； which very much resembles the Var； we forded： but the Isere we crossed in a boat； which as well as that upon the Durance； is managed by the traille； a moveable or running pulley； on a rope stretched between two wooden machines erected on the opposite sides of the river。 The contrivance is simple and effectual； and the passage equally safe and expeditious。 The boatman has nothing to do； but by means of a long massy rudder； to keep the head obliquely to the stream； the force of which pushes the boat along； the block to which it is fixed sliding upon the rope from one side to the other。 All these rivers take their rise from the mountains； which are continued through Provence and Dauphine； and fall into the Rhone： and all of them； when swelled by sudden rains； overflow the flat country。 Although Dauphine affords little or no oil； it produces excellent wines； particularly those of Hermitage and Cote…roti。 The first of these is sold on the spot for three livres the bottle； and the other for two。 The country likewise yields a considerable quantity of corn； and a good deal of grass。 It is well watered with streams； and agreeably shaded with wood。 The weather was pleasant； and we had a continued song of nightingales from Aix to Fontainebleau。
I cannot pretend to specify the antiquities of Vienne； antiently called Vienna Allobrogum。 It was a Roman colony； and a considerable city； which the antients spared no pains and expence to embellish。 It is still a large town； standing among several hills on the banks of the Rhone； though all its former splendor is eclipsed； its commerce decayed； and most of its antiquities are buried in ruins。 The church of Notre Dame de la Vie was undoubtedly a temple。 On the left of the road； as you enter it； by the gate of Avignon； there is a handsome obelisk； or rather pyramid； about thirty feet high； raised upon a vault supported by four pillars of the Tuscan order。 It is certainly a Roman work； and Montfaucon supposes it to be a tomb； as he perceived an oblong stone jetting out from the middle of the vault； in which the ashes of the defunct were probably contained。 The story of Pontius Pilate； who is said to have ended his days in this place； is a fable。 On the seventh day of our journey from Aix； we arrived at Lyons； where I shall take my leave of you for the present； being with great truthYours； etc。
LETTER XLI
BOULOGNE； June 13； 1765。
DEAR SIR；I am at last in a situation to indulge my view with a sight of Britain； after an absence of two years； and indeed you cannot imagine what pleasure I feel while I survey the white cliffs of Dover； at this distance。 Not that I am at all affected by the nescia qua dulcedine natalis soli； of Horace。 That seems to be a kind of fanaticism founded on the prejudices of education； which induces a Laplander to place the terrestrial paradise among the snows of Norway； and a Swiss to prefer the barren mountains of Solleure to the fruitful plains of Lombardy。 I am attached to my country； because it is the land of liberty； cleanliness； and convenience： but I love it still more tenderly； as the scene of all my interesting connexions； as the habitation of my friends； for whose conversation； correspondence； and esteem； I wish alone to live。
Our journey hither from Lyons produced neither accident nor adventure worth notice； but abundance of little vexations； which may be termed the Plagues of Posting。 At Lyons； where we stayed only a few days； I found a return…coach； which I hired to Paris for six loui'dores。 It was a fine roomy carriage； elegantly furnished； and made for travelling； so strong and solid in all its parts； that there was no danger of its being shaken to pieces by the roughness of the road： but its weight and solidity occasioned so much friction between the wheels and the axle…tree； that we ran the risque of being set on fire three or four times a day。 Upon a just comparison of all circumstances posting is much more easy； convenient； and reasonable in England than in France。 The English carriages； horses； harness； and roads are much better； and the postilions more obliging and alert。 The reason is plain and obvious。 If I am ill…used at the post…house in England； I can be accommodated elsewhere。 The publicans on the road are sensible of this； and therefore they vie with each other in giving satisfaction to travellers。 But in France； where the post is monopolized； the post…masters and postilions； knowing that the traveller depends intirely upon them； are the more negligent and remiss in their duty； as well as the more encouraged to insolence and imposition。 Indeed the stranger seems to be left intirely at the mercy of those fellows； except in large towns； where he may have recourse to the magistrate or commanding officer。 The post stands very often by itself in a lone country situation； or in a paultry village； where the post…master is the principal inhabitant； and in such a ca