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ter of the house was a surly assassin； and his cameriere or waiter； stark…staring mad。 Our situation was at the same time shocking and ridiculous。 Mr。 R quarrelled over night with the master； who swore in broken French to my man； that he had a good mind to poniard that impertinent Piedmontese。 In the morning； before day； Mr。 R； coming into my chamber； gave me to understand that he had been insulted by the landlord； who demanded six and thirty livres for our supper and lodging。 Incensed at the rascal's presumption； I assured him I would make him take half the money； and a good beating into the bargain。 He replied； that he would have saved me the trouble of beating him； had not the cameriere； who was a very sensible fellow； assured him the padrone was out of his senses； and if roughly handled； might commit some extravagance。 Though I was exceedingly ruffled； I could not help laughing at the mad cameriere's palming himself upon Ry； as a sensible fellow； and transferring the charge of madness upon his master； who seemed to be much more knave than fool。 While Mr。 R went to mass； I desired the cameriere to bid his master bring the bill； and to tell him that if it was not reasonable； I would carry him before the commandant。 In the mean time I armed myself with my sword in one hand and my cane in the other。 The inn…keeper immediately entered； pale and staring； and when I demanded his bill； he told me； with a profound reverence that he should be satisfied with whatever I myself thought proper to give。 Surprised at this moderation； I asked if he should be content with twelve livres； and he answered； 〃Contentissimo；〃 with another prostration。 Then he made an apology for the bad accommodation of his house； and complained； that the reproaches of the other gentleman； whom he was pleased to call my majorduomo； had almost turned his brain。 When he quitted the room； his cameriere； laying hold of his master's last words； pointed to his own forehead； and said； he had informed the gentleman over night that his patron was mad。 This day we were by a high wind in the afternoon； driven for shelter into Porto Mauritio； where we found the post…house even worse than that of Finale； and what rendered it more shocking was a girl quite covered with the confluent smallpox； who lay in a room through which it was necessary to pass to the other chambers； and who smelled so strong as to perfume the whole house。 We were but fifteen miles from St。 Remo； where I knew the auberge was tolerable； and thither I resolved to travel by land。 I accordingly ordered five mules to travel post； and a very ridiculous cavalcade we formed； the women being obliged to use common saddles； for in this country even the ladies sit astride。 The road lay along one continued precipice； and was so difficult； that the beasts never could exceed a walking pace。 In some places we were obliged to alight。 Seven hours were spent in travelling fifteen short miles： at length we arrived at our old lodgings in St。 Remo； which we found white…washed； and in great order。 We supped pretty comfortably； slept well； and had no reason to complain of imposition in paying the bill。 This was not the case in the article of the mules； for which I was obliged to pay fifty livres； according to the regulation of the posts。 The postmaster； who came along with us； had the effrontery to tell me； that if I had hired the mules to carry me and my company to St。 Remo； in the way of common travelling； they would have cost me but fifteen livres； but as I demanded post…horses； I must submit to the regulations。 This is a distinction the more absurd； as the road is of such a nature as renders it impossible to travel faster in one way than in another； nor indeed is there the least difference either in the carriage or convenience； between travelling post and journey riding。 A publican might with the same reason charge me three livres a pound for whiting； and if questioned about the imposition； reply； that if I had asked for fish I should have had the same whiting for the fifth part of the money： but that he made a wide difference between selling it as fish； and selling it as whiting。 Our felucca came round from Porto Mauritio in the night； and embarking next morning； we arrived at Nice about four in the afternoon。
Thus have I given you a circumstantial detail of my Italian expedition； during which I was exposed to a great number of hardships； which I thought my weakened constitution could not have bore； as well as to violent fits of passion； chequered； however； with transports of a more agreeable nature； insomuch that I may say I was for two months continually agitated either in mind or body； and very often in both at the same time。 As my disorder at first arose from a sedentary life； producing a relaxation of the fibres； which naturally brought on a listlessness； indolence； and dejection of the spirits； I am convinced that this hard exercise of mind and body； co…operated with the change of air and objects； to brace up the relaxed constitution； and promote a more vigorous circulation of the juices； which had long languished even almost to stagnation。 For some years； I had been as subject to colds as a delicate woman new delivered。 If I ventured to go abroad when there was the least moisture either in the air； or upon the ground； I was sure to be laid up a fortnight with a cough and asthma。 But； in this journey； I suffered cold and rain； and stood； and walked in the wet； heated myself with exercise； and sweated violently； without feeling the least disorder； but； on the contrary； felt myself growing stronger every day in the midst of these excesses。 Since my return to Nice； it has rained the best part of two months； to the astonishment of all the people in the country； yet during all that time I have enjoyed good health and spirits。 On Christmas…Eve； I went to the cathedral at midnight； to hear high mass celebrated by the new bishop of Nice； in pontificalibus； and stood near two hours uncovered in a cold gallery； without having any cause in the sequel to repent of my curiosity。 In a word； I am now so well that I no longer despair of seeing you and the rest of my friends in England； a pleasure which is eagerly desired by；Dear Sir； Your affectionate humble Servant。
LETTER XXXVI
NICE； March 23； 1766。
DEAR SIR；You ask whether I think the French people are more taxed than the English； but I apprehend； the question would be more apropos if you asked whether the French taxes are more insupportable than the English； for； in comparing burthens； we ought always to consider the strength of the shoulders that bear them。 I know no better way of estimating the strength； than by examining the face of the country； and observing the appearance of the common people； who constitute the bulk of every nation。 When I； therefore； see the country of England smiling with cultivation； the grounds exhibiting all the perfection of agriculture； parcelled out into beautiful inclosures； cornfields； hay and pasture； woodland and common； when I see her meadows well stocked with black cattle； her downs covered with sheep； when I view her teams of