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He assured me that the road by Terni was forty miles shorter than the other； much more safe and easy； and accommodated with exceeding good auberges。 Had I taken the trouble to cast my eyes upon the map； I must have seen； that the road by Terni； instead of being forty miles shorter； was much longer than the other： but this was not the only mistake of Signiore Barazzi。 Great part of this way lies over steep mountains； or along the side of precipices； which render travelling in a carriage exceeding tedious； dreadful； and dangerous； and as for the public houses； they are in all respects the most execrable that ever I entered。 I will venture to say that a common prisoner in the Marshalsea or King's…Bench is more cleanly and commodiously lodged than we were in many places on this road。 The houses are abominably nasty； and generally destitute of provision： when eatables were found； we were almost poisoned by their cookery： their beds were without curtains or bedstead； and their windows without glass； and for this sort of entertainment we payed as much as if we had been genteelly lodged； and sumptuously treated。 I repeat it again； of all the people I ever knew； the Italians are the most villainously rapacious。 The first day； having passed Civita Castellana； a small town standing on the top of a hill； we put up at what was called an excellent inn； where cardinals； prelates； and princes； often lodged。 Being meagre day； there was nothing but bread； eggs； and anchovies； in the house。 I went to bed without supper； and lay in a pallet； where I was half devoured by vermin。 Next day； our road； in some places； lay along precipices； which over…hang the Nera or Nar； celebrated in antiquity for its white foam； and the sulphureous quality of its waters。
Sulfurea nar albus aqua； fontesque velini。
Sulphureous nar； and the Velinian streams。
It is a small； but rapid stream； which runs not far from hence； into the Tyber。 Passing Utricoli； near the ruins of the ancient Ocriculum； and the romantic town of Narni； situated on the top of a mountain； in the neighbourhood of which is still seen standing one arch of the stupendous bridge built by Augustus Caesar； we arrived at Terni； and hiring a couple of chaises before dinner； went to see the famous Cascata delle Marmore； which is at the distance of three miles。 We ascended a steep mountain by a narrow road formed for a considerable way along the brink of a precipice； at the bottom of which brawls the furious river Nera； after having received the Velino。 This last is the stream which； running from the Lago delle Marmore； forms the cascade by falling over a precipice about one hundred and sixty feet high。 Such a body of water rushing down the mountain； the smoak； vapour； and thick white mist which it raises； the double rainbow which these particles continually exhibit while the sun shines； the deafening sound of the cataract； the vicinity of a great number of other stupendous rocks and precipices； with the dashing； boiling； and foaming of the two rivers below； produce altogether an object of tremendous sublimity： yet great part of its effect is lost； for want of a proper point of view； from which it might be contemplated。 The cascade would appear much more astonishing； were it not in some measure eclipsed by the superior height of the neighbouring mountains。 You have not a front perspective； but are obliged to view it obliquely on one side； standing upon the brink of a precipice； which cannot be approached without horror。 This station might be rendered much more accessible； and altogether secure； for the expence of four or five zequines； and a small tax might be levied for the purpose from travellers by the aubergiste at Terni； who lets his calasses for half a zequine a piece to those that are curious to see this phaenomenon。 Besides the two postilions whom I payed for this excursion； at the rate of one stage in posting； there was a fellow who posted himself behind one of the chaises； by way of going to point out the different views of the cascade； and his demand amounted to four or five pauls。 To give you an idea of the extortion of those villainous publicans； I must tell you that for a dinner and supper； which even hunger could not tempt us to eat； and a night's lodging in three truckle beds； I paid eighty pauls； amounting to forty shillings sterling。 You ask me why I submitted to such imposition？ I will tell youI have more than once in my travels made a formal complaint of the exorbitancy of a publican； to the magistrate of the place； but I never received any satisfaction； and have lost abundance of time。 Had I proceeded to manual correction； I should have alarmed and terrified the women： had I peremptorily refused to pay the sum total； the landlord； who was the post…master； would not have supplied me with horses to proceed on my journey。 I tried the experiment at Muy in France； where I put myself into a violent passion； had abundance of trouble； was detained till it was almost night； and after all found myself obliged to submit； furnishing at the same time matter of infinite triumph to the mob； which had surrounded the coach； and interested themselves warmly in favour of their townsman。 If some young patriot； in good health and spirits； would take the trouble as often as he is imposed upon by the road in travelling； to have recourse to the fountain…head； and prefer a regular complaint to the comptroller of the posts； either in France or Italy； he would have ample satisfaction； and do great service to the community。 Terni is an agreeable town； pretty well built； and situated in a pleasant valley； between two branches of the river Nera； whence it was called by the antients； Interamna。 Here is an agreeable piazza； where stands a church that was of old a heathen temple。 There are some valuable paintings in the church。 The people are said to be very civil； and provisions to be extremely cheap。 It was the birthplace of the emperor Tacitus； as well as of the historian of the same name。 In our journey from hence to Spoleto； we passed over a high mountain； （called； from its height； Somma） where it was necessary to have two additional horses to the carriage； and the road winds along a precipice。 which is equally dangerous and dreadful。 We passed through part of Spoleto； the capital of Umbria； which is a pretty large city。 Of this； however； I give no other account from my own observation； but that I saw at a distance the famous Gothic aqueduct of brick： this is mentioned by Addison as a structure； which； for the height of its arches； is not equalled by any thing in Europe。 The road from hence to Foligno； where we lay； is kept in good order； and lies through a delightful plain； laid out into beautiful inclosures； abounding with wine； oil； corn； and cattle； and watered by the pastoral streams of the famous river Clitumnus； which takes its rise in three or four separate rivulets issuing from a rock near the highway。 On the right…hand； we saw several towns situated on rising grounds； and among the rest； that of Assissio； famous for the birth of St。 Francis； whose body； being here deposited； occasions a conc