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debutante whom she is trying to launch; or the sitting through a 
particularly dull opera in order to see her to the carriage; her 
lord and master having slipped off early to his club and a quiet 
game of pool。  Many people who read these lines are old enough to 
remember that prehistoric period when unmarried girls went to the 
theatre and parties; alone with the men they knew。  This custom 
still prevails in our irrepressible West。  It was an arrangement by 
which all the expenses fell on the man … theatre tickets; carriages 
if it rained; and often a bit of supper after。  If a youth asked a 
girl to dance the cotillion; he was expected to send a bouquet; 
sure to cost between twenty and twenty…five dollars。  What a 
blessed change for the impecunious swell when all this went out of 
fashion!  New York is his paradise now; in other parts of the world 
something is still expected of him。  In France it takes the form of 
a handsome bag of bon…bons on New Year's Day; if he has accepted 
hospitality during the past year。  While here he need do absolutely 
nothing (unless he wishes to); the occasional leaving of a card 
having been suppressed of late by our JEUNESSE DOREE; five minutes 
of their society in an opera box being estimated (by them) as ample 
return for a dinner or a week in a country house。
The truth of it is; there are so few men who 〃go out〃 (it being 
practically impossible for any one working at a serious profession 
to sit up night after night; even if he desired); and at the same 
time so many women insist on entertaining to amuse themselves or 
better their position; that the men who go about get spoiled and 
almost come to consider the obligation conferred; when they dine 
out。  There is no more amusing sight than poor paterfamilias 
sitting in the club between six and seven P。M。 pretending to read 
the evening paper; but really with his eve on the door; he has been 
sent down by his wife to 〃get a man;〃 as she is one short for her 
dinner this evening。  He must be one who will fit in well with the 
other guests; hence papa's anxious look; and the reason the 
editorial gets so little of his attention!  Watch him as young 
〃professional〃 lounges in。  There is just his man … if he only 
happens to be disengaged!  You will see 〃Pater〃 cross the room and 
shake hands; then; after a few minutes' whispered conversation; he 
will walk down to his coupe with such a relieved look on his face。  
Young 〃professional;〃 who is in faultless evening dress; will ring 
for a cocktail and take up the discarded evening paper to pass the 
time till eight twenty…five。
Eight twenty…five; advisedly; for he will be the last to arrive; 
knowing; clever dog; how much eCLAT it gives one to have a room 
full of people asking each other; 〃Whom are we waiting for?〃 when 
the door opens; and he is announced。  He will stay a moment after 
the other guests have gone and receive the most cordial pressures 
of the hand from a grateful hostess (if not spoken words of thanks) 
in return for eating an exquisitely cooked dinner; seated between 
two agreeable women; drinking irreproachable wine; smoking a cigar; 
and washing the whole down with a glass of 1830 brandy; or some 
priceless historic madeira。
There is probably a moral to be extracted from all this。  But 
frankly my ethics are so mixed that I fail to see where the blame 
lies; and which is the less worthy individual; the ostentatious 
axe…grinding host or the interested guest。  One thing; however; I 
see clearly; viz。; that life is very agreeable to him who starts in 
with few prejudices; good manners; a large amount of well…concealed 
〃cheek〃 and the happy faculty of taking things as they come。
CHAPTER 36 … American Society in Italy
THE phrase at the head of this chapter and other sentences; such as 
〃American Society in Paris;〃 or London; are constantly on the lips 
of people who should know better。  In reality these societies do 
not exist。  Does my reader pause; wondering if he can believe his 
eyes?  He has doubtless heard all his life of these delightful 
circles; and believes in them。  He may even have dined; EN PASSANT; 
at the 〃palace〃 of some resident compatriot in Rome or Florence; 
under the impression that he was within its mystic limits。  
Illusion!  An effect of mirage; making that which appears quite 
tangible and solid when viewed from a distance dissolve into thin 
air as one approaches; like the mirage; cheating the weary 
traveller with a vision of what he most longs for。
Forty; even fifty years ago; there lived in Rome a group of very 
agreeable people; Story and the two Greenoughs and Crawford; the 
sculptor (father of the brilliant novelist of today); Charlotte 
Cushman (who divided her time between Rome and Newport); and her 
friend Miss Stebbins; the sculptress; to whose hands we owe the 
bronze fountain on the Mall in our Park; Rogers; then working at 
the bronze doors of our capitol; and many other cultivated and 
agreeable people。  Hawthorne passed a couple of winters among them; 
and the tone of that society is reflected in his 〃Marble Faun。〃  He 
took Story as a model for his 〃Kenyon;〃 and was the first to note 
the exotic grace of an American girl in that strange setting。  They 
formed as transcendental and unworldly a group as ever gathered 
about a 〃tea〃 table。  Great things were expected of them and their 
influence; but they disappointed the world; and; with the exception 
of Hawthorne; are being fast forgotten。
Nothing could be simpler than life in the papal capital in those 
pleasant days。  Money was rare; but living as delightfully 
inexpensive。  It was about that time; if I do not mistake; that a 
list was published in New York of the citizens worth one hundred 
thousand dollars; and it was not a long one!  The Roman colony took 
〃tea〃 informally with each other; and 〃received〃 on stated evenings 
in their studios (when mulled claret and cakes were the only 
refreshment offered; very bad they were; too); and migrated in the 
summer to the mountains near Rome or to Sorrento。  In the winter 
months their circle was enlarged by a contingent from home。  Among 
wealthy New Yorkers; it was the fashion in the early fifties to 
pass a winter in Rome; when; together with his other dissipations; 
paterfamilias would sit to one of the American sculptors for his 
bust; which accounts for the horrors one now runs across in dark 
corners of country houses; … ghostly heads in 〃chin whiskers〃 and 
Roman draperies。
The son of one of these pioneers; more rich than cultivated; 
noticed the other day; while visiting a friend of mine; an 
exquisite eighteenth…century bust of Madame de Pompadour; the pride 
of his hostess's drawing…room。  〃Ah!〃 said Midas; 〃are busts the 
fashion again?  I have one of my father; done in Rome in 1850。  I 
will bring it down and put it in my parlor。〃
The travellers consulted